Mirror, Mirror: three brands launching beauty lines in 2013

It seems that the latest move for fashion brands isn't to launch a line of sunglasses or team up with a drinks company - it's beauty that's got them all motivated. Look at the retail success stories and it's not hard to see why, with Giorgio Armani counters consistently delivering cult products to beauty halls, American Apparel getting its claws well and truly into the heady world of nail varnish, and Topshop's lipsticks being a reliable staple in many women's make-up bags.

 [Marc Jacobs images via Popsugar].

Of course, with every fantastic cosmetics line like Gareth Pugh for MAC (be still, my beating heart), there is always the risk of a dud - does anyone remember the ill-fated Rodarte range, also for MAC, which made light of the feminicide in Juarez and was therefore scrapped at the last minute? The best thing is to stick to inoffensive but cool product names, a mixture of quirky disco colours and wearable everyday shades, and ultra-glossy packaging. Here are the newest three ranges you should be adding to your shopping list pretty soon.

It's all about orange.

 This burgundy polish is perfect for autumn.

Marc Jacobs

Whilst there have been a few tempting images doing the rounds on the internet over the last few weeks, Popsugar was the site to release a preview of the entire collection. Ok, so nobody can get their hands on it until 9th August at Sephora (sadly we're Sephora-less in the UK), but there's no reason not to drool in anticipation over the wearable colour palette being delivered by the great Mr. Jacobs. Many of the products are the kind of thing that a Jackie Collins heroine would wear; slick tangerine lipstick, sparkling champagne nail polish, pillar box red lip gloss, topped off with an eyeliner called Magic Marc'er (utter genius). These little gems are the perfect kick-ass finishing touch to your beauty regime and I'm sure they'll sell like hot cakes.

 Make Up heel [image via Polyvore].

 The famous Pigalle [image via Net-a-Porter.com].

Christian Louboutin

Now, this story may be old news - it first broke in May 2012 - but there's no sign yet of the collection created by Louboutin with Batallure Beauty, despite him recently stoking the fire with a sound bite about women being 'unsophisticated' without make-up. Knowing that the great man is famous for his red-soled vertiginous heels (most notably the Pigalle style), it's safe to say that his cosmetics probably won't be aimed at wallflowers either, and red is bound to play a part in the colour palette. However, there's also a high chance of seeing some serious bling and loads of mad-cap unrestrained creative expression - very different from the simplicity of the Pigalle. After all, his shoes have been inspired by bondage, googly eyes, Guinness cans and the pointe position of ballet dancers. When the range does eventually launch in late 2013, you can bet that Louboutin stalwarts like Dita Von Teese and Daphne Guinness will be the first to sport it. 

 The original Marchesa dress that inspired the wraps [image via Fashionista.com].

 Ready for 3D designer talons? [Image via Fashionista.com].

Marchesa for Revlon

Marchesa often makes waves for dressing glamazons on the red carpet, but this partnership with Revlon offers a bite sized - or finger sized - slice of luxury to an audience that can only dream of dressing like a star. Nail wraps are already a huge trend, so creating designs inspired by the brand's catwalk creations is a simple but effective way of spreading their appeal. All that's been revealed for now is that the first part of the collection will consist of eight different sets, called 3D Jewel Appliqués, and they'll hit the US in October - again, no word yet on when they'll be available to UK customers. The sneak preview image of one set shows gorgeous jade and turquoise florals inspired by a lace and tulle dress. Further editions from the collection will cover make-up and brushes, which should be similarly feminine and sophisticated. 

So, with all of these cosmetics lines dropping in the near future, the question is: who'll be next to jump on the bandwagon? I'm dreaming of eco-friendly Vivienne Westwood lipsticks, shocking pink Roksanda Ilincic blusher and punchy House of Holland nail art pens...

Style in Almodovar's 'Women on the Verge...'

Anyone who's watched a Pedro Almodovar film will appreciate that the director likes his women strong, captivating and usually taking centre stage, but when I sat down to watch Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown (1988), I wasn't quite prepared for how arresting their costumes would be. 

Every female character had a distinct look that only she could carry off, whilst the only memorable male outfit was the bizarre cartoon-esque get-up sported by Madrid's most sensitive taxi driver - think big 80s bleached hair and a heavy dose of lime green, against a leopard print taxi interior. 

 These well dressed women hint at how much fun you'll have with the film if you love style.

 The slick and eye-catching opening titles.

This is the man to thank: costume designer Jose Maria de Cossio.

This film not only had major staying power because of its complex plot and unexpectedly good one-liners during traumatic moments, but it struck me that the costumes were impossible to get out of my head. I kept thinking about Pepa's Vans-style trainers and hibiscus-print shirt, contrasted with her more business-like long line cardigans, which she even double-layered at one point. 

 What to wear when your bed bursts into flames, as demonstrated by Pepa (Carmen Maura).

 Pepa examines Ivan's wardrobe.

This calls for two cardigans.

I loved the innocence of her best friend Candela's tube skirt and top ensemble, worn with knee-high socks and creepers - an outfit that could have come straight out of Topshop this season. Candela (Maria Barranco) then borrowed Pepa's black dress, slicked back her hair in true 80s style and took on a much more serious fashion personality, as she tried to get to grips with the crazy and dangerous situation she'd found herself in, which Almodovar has made brilliantly tragi-comic.

 L-R: Marisa (Rossy de Palma), Candela (Maria Barranco) and Carlos (Antonio Banderas).

Candela's working the stripes and the embellished jacket.

A serious event needs a sharper outfit.

For another key character Lucia (Julieta Serrano), fashion was all about looking to the past, because the happiest times of her life were decades old. Cue meticulously applied eyeliner, a beehive wig and childlike accessories such as white tights and a hat that looked like it was once a traffic cone.

The eyeliner excuse: probably used by women around the world. As said by Lucia to Carlos.

Totally incognito.

The most interesting costume moments definitely appeared when things really started to unravel for the women. That meant weird hair and gazpacho-soaked clothing to go with the heightened tension and urgency.

Not quite sticking to smart-casual here, Lucia.

One of the morals of the story, as Pepa explains to Ana (Ana Leza).

This could almost be the basis of a Lichtenstein painting.

Basically, I can't recommend this film enough if you're into costume design and you love the 80s. There's so much expressed by the outfits in Almodovar's Women on the Verge... and it's great to see it lighting up the screen.

19 years on, Prada has cast another black model... yes, this is the 21st century

It feels weird writing about momentous news when it doesn't sound quite as momentous as it should be. I am so glad that Prada has decided to cast a black model in its ad campaigns for the first time in 19 years - the last lucky lady was one Naomi Campbell, when we were in the age of the supermodel, back in '94 - but how on earth has it taken so long? Why has there been no black model deemed suitable in the interim? Unless I'm mistaken, the past two decades haven't exactly been devoid of candidates. 

 Malaika's high-profile ad for the upcoming season [Image via Jezebel.com]

Malaika Firth, the stunning British Kenyan model used in the Fall 13 campaign alongside famous Chinese model Fei Fei Sun, has now broken barriers in the fashion world for marking the turning point in this designer's campaigns. Miuccia Prada, whilst being a supremely talented woman, hasn't exactly done much for diversity in the past (see Jezebel), until she brought Jourdan Dunn onto the runway in 2008, which was seen as a revelation; please bear in mind, this was 2008, not 1908 - it should not have had to be a novelty. We should have been stamping down inequality on the catwalk decades ago, not just letting it slide because it's the done thing. There's making a trend, and then there's being narrow-minded.

Naomi's 1994 campaign, shot by Steven Meisel [Image via Fashionbombdaily.com]

In case Prada wasn't sure who would have been good to hire between 1994 and 2013, here are a few suggestions for potential ad campaign stars:

• Sessilee Lopez
• Chanel Iman
• Joan Smalls
• Arlenis Sosa
• Liya Kebede
• Alek Wek
• Nyasha Matonhodze (I know she's not as high profile as the others, but I think she'd make a great Prada girl - did you see her cover for Love Magazine?)
  

Basically, as amazing as it is to see Malaika and Fei Fei being given the nod by Miuccia, I think it's really sad that they've had to wait that long for the tide to turn. How can it be that 19 years is allowed to pass, during which we can assume non-white women don't wear Prada, buy into its branding or worship its designs (and, if they do, they're left feeling alienated and ignored)? This has to stop. 

P.S. If you want to read more about my writing on the catwalk's lack of ethnic diversity, check out my blog series. For more on body shapes and equality on the catwalk, click here.

Visual Merchandising: Harvey Nichols, London #HNStayCalm

If, like me, the word 'sale' is like a drug to you, then you'll really appreciate the creative genius behind Harvey Nichols' new windows, which I saw being put together last week. Part of its current #HNStayCalm campaign, which promotes its huge summer sale, the idea is to give the concept of running around like a headless chicken a very fashionable twist. 

 These two look relatively calm. Check out the feather-inspired wigs.

Having once braved the highs and the horror of a Vivienne Westwood sample sale in Notting Hill (where I was surprised nobody drew blood, especially with the very inept staff on hand), it's safe to say that I know what Harvey Nichols is getting at with its message. They know that shoppers lap up the deals and are prepared to fight tooth and nail to get them, so they've brought us ads with headless but style-conscious poultry and then they've added feather-style headpieces, possibly with hair extensions, to the mannequins on display. 

 I love the drama of this white dress against the brocade jacket.

Ok, so it's not the finished article, but this is shaping up to be a fantastic display.

For me, the real killer touch were the layers of industrial foam in different shades, creating a backdrop that resembled the strata of cliffs (well, even chickens get desperate, guys - if they needed to jump off a cliff to reach a bit of Mary Katrantzou then they definitely would go for it). The bleakness of the foam made the clothes stand out even more, creating a bit of a wasteland for the mannequins to punctuate with outfits in earthy and neutral tones.

A mannequin lounges on top of the foam layers.

If being a chicken makes you this well dressed, clearly it's worth working up a sweat for those sale bargains.

Newsflash: Primark is available at ASOS!

I can hear the sigh of relief being breathed by cash-strapped fashionistas across the land: finally, Primark has dipped its toes into the scary world of online retail, bringing its pocket money-friendly prices to an even wider audience. 

 Bargain-hunters, your prayers have been answered. 

[All images via ASOS.com]

As someone whose home town doesn't have a Primarni to its name, I'll be relieved not to have to schlep my way to the nearest store in order to get my fix, especially when the items I've been lusting after in magazines aren't always reliably stocked in my local branch (but rest assured, there will always be an inexplicably plentiful supply of comedy onesies doing the rounds and being abandoned on the shop floor, amid the detritus...). It can also be maddening knowing that Primark offers the product that I want, but for some reason its entire stock is in sizes 8-10, for no apparent reason other than to taunt me. Pfft. Well, with ASOS to the rescue, surely things will turn a corner, knowing how efficient and successful the web retail giant is - even at a content marketing event last week, two speakers chose to use the website as an example of great strategic marketing, and rightfully so. 

 One of the six products currently available; the parka.

To those who think that Primark might seem like a very low-end acquisition for the brand, you only have to consider ASOS' target market (young women who want to stay on-trend) and its origins as a provider of celebrity-infused fashion. It's not long since the website began stocking high street labels like River Island, Motel and Lipsy, so Primark feels like a natural addition to the brand directory as ASOS continues being relevant to, and in the price range of, recession-crippled Brits. Whilst its high-end efforts such as the Black range are laudable, what keeps the site at the top of shoppers' online bookmarks is its affordability - the idea that you, too, can have a piece of the pie for less, even if you're a student or you're on a very tight budget. 

I definitely feel that this is a step in the right direction. Having Primarni on the books can only add to ASOS' reputation as the go-to site for British women, especially if it means you can replace the jumble sale feel of rush hour Primark with the sleek and sophisticated feel of the online retailer's homepage. And as for the perfect first purchase from this shopping marriage, I'd have to choose the studded parka (£22) - great for festivals, taking into consideration the high risk of crap British summer weather along the way...

Exploring Reykjavik's Kolaportid Flea Market

I returned from a trip to Reykjavik a week ago, but I'm still in a bit of an Icelandic bubble, to be honest. The city blew me away with its colourful buildings, quirky bars and super-friendly people - these guys would probably give you a kidney if you asked nicely enough. There were also some fantastic shops, but the one thing that stopped me splurging too much was the price.

 A peek into the bustling hub of Kolaportid.

This way to menswear, sir.

Without any sort of Topshop/Primark/New Look equivalents dotted along the main streets of Laugavegur and Hverfisgata, I was instead faced with some difficult decisions. Should I spend £120 on an Icelandic woolen jumper or £150 on a butterfly-print scarf from the posh department store, Atmo? Somehow I couldn't quite do it. I knew there would be a cheaper alternative somewhere, and lo and behold I found it at the Kolaportid flea market, which is held every weekend in a warehouse between the Old Harbour and the Harpa Concert Hall. It's free to wander around, but make sure you bring some money, as you're likely to be parting with some cash along the way.

Trolls and Victorian dolls vie for attention.

Want a cover for your mobile or a copy of a Tintin DVD? Sorted.

The stalls in the main market area contained everything from toys and books to clothing. As with most UK flea markets, there was an army surplus area, where you could pick up cheap bags, badges and jackets that were ripe for being customised.

 Raise your leg if you like a bargain.

Take your pick from the books on offer.

Meanwhile, the rest of the warehouse was dedicated to food, though much of it wasn't very vegetarian-friendly. Luckily my friend and I don't get too squeamish and don't mind meat, but if you're not partial to it then I'd skip this bit. We saw a pig's head just casually plonked on top of someone's stall, whilst some squirm-inducing entrails sat below it. We then headed round to the fish area, hoping to see some hakarl (putrefied shark meat, supposedly an Icelandic delicacy), but they were fresh out of it, so we skipped to the confectionery department, where there was some kind of treat called an Olsen-Olsen - perhaps the candy equivalent of the Olsen twins?

 Wake up and smell the fish.

Spot the Olsen twins in the centre.

My best bargain was a book on palmistry, which cost me about £1 and is probably going to involve some painstaking translation work with the help of Google, but I reckon it'll be worth it.

This translates, quite sweetly, as 'Promise Readings'.

If you want to visit the market then you'll find it at Tryggvagotu 19 in 101 Reykjavik, open from 11am-5pm on Saturdays and Sundays.

Why I'm unruffled by the Spring/Summer 2013 ruffle trend

Normally on this blog I do tend to focus on the things I love about fashion; the things that make me want to go out and shop, or at least try and customise something in tribute to what I've seen and can't get out of my head. Well, this time I definitely won't be jumping on the bandwagon, because Spring/Summer 2013's ruffles won't be making their way into my wardrobe any time soon. Here's why I object to the thrill of frills.

What Works On The Catwalk Doesn't Always Translate To Real Life

I think this is a firm case of something looking expressive and dramatic on the catwalk, but then seeming more like a retro prom queen disaster when you see it on the woman next to you on the street. 

Obviously if you're a bit of an exhibitionist then you will quite happily get in a right flap about ruffles and you'll love the extra attention that they bring, but there's an element of overblown excitement and fuss about the whole ensemble which just doesn't work for everyday life, even if you filter it down to the high street and imagine spending £30 on a cheap version of the dress below.

[Image via Vogue.com]. Balenciaga's dramatic movement failed to move me. Sorry, Nicholas Ghesquiere.

I think the question is: in what situation would this Balenciaga ruffled dress be appropriate and attractive to other people? At a cocktail party, you'd seem very high maintenance and you'd probably have got through multiple lonely marriages with only small yappy dogs for company and the occasional use of a yacht in St. Tropez. 

In a club, you'd be the one wearing too much make-up, talking too loudly and trying to look girly; you'd then spend most of the night trying to fend off jokes from men asking if you're dressed for flamenco dancing or why you're so bloody keen to bring back the 80s.  

Maybe if you're Carrie Bradshaw or Miroslava Duma then you could work this look, but us mere mortals don't always want to be that theatrical.

I Don't Want To Resemble A Valance

Valances on beds and curtains are one of those unnecessary details that just create too much fuss and make you look a bit like a cat lady in waiting. Sadly, some of these poor embarrassing homeware trimmings have made their way into Zac Posen's S/S13 offering, suggesting that us mere mortals may soon be asked to resemble our posh relatives' spare bedrooms. If, like me, you're not keen on channeling this look, say no to the ruffles and stay minimalist.

[Image via Vogue.com]. Zac Posen gets ruffled up.

Peplum, Maybe. Ruffles, No. My Curves Can't Cope

I'm proud of having curves, yes, but when trends like this come along then it can seem like overkill for someone like me - whose ribs are quite hard to find and whose hips are definitely anything but boyish - to join in and let those curves be amplified to excess. I don't need to emphasise those areas with extra fabric, but what I'd rather do is try and find my waist, to add a little balance, or try and play down my chest, rather than break out a frilly cleavage. 

Whilst the ever-popular peplum skims over the stomach and kicks out slightly at the hips in a fluid line, the ruffled blouse explodes like a five-year-old after too many party snacks and fizzy drinks. It's unsubtle and messy. Of course, if you are curvier and you want to wear frills, then I'm not saying you can't pull them off and look great, but I just find that they're counter-productive for me, and they leave me feeling like a meringue, when I'd rather eat one. 

If you're one of the brave (and probably slim) minority of women looking to rock a ruffle this season, good luck to you. I'll be watching, bemused, from the sidelines, and sitting this one out.