The Cambridge Satchel Company's Brand Evolution: S/S14 Looks Bright

Today I received some of the shiny new images from the S/S14 collection by the Cambridge Satchel Company, which has gone from strength to strength since its formation around a kitchen table back in 2008. This latest range shows just how determined the brand is to achieve longevity and not just be part of a short-term satchel trend. No wonder it's just had a cash injection of over £12 million from Index Ventures. Peach Pink and Bellflower Blue are going to be it-colours for the season, mark my words.

 [Images via Cambridge Satchel Company S/S14 launch and Google+ profile].

These longer strap options won't hang around for long this season.

 I would snap up this navy clutch in an instant.

Candy clutches (and traditional black) are sure to be successful.

Whilst I'm yet to get my hands on one of these bags, I can definitely see the appeal of their latest evolution into clutches, two-tone variants and long shoulder strap numbers. The key to keeping the brand fresh is to offer something desirable and different, as well as the same reliable models that the public knows them for. 

 Two tone works well in both of these colour ways.

Even small adjustments, such as panels made from leopard print or tartan fabric, Vivienne Westwood designed prints or iconic Harris Tweed, show that there is more than one ideal CSC customer and they will all be catered for. I've seen the Accessories Editor of Elle carrying a neon number at London Fashion Week, but I've also seen grandmas, students and mums buying into the brand as well. 

 There's nothing like a bit of punk spirit from a British brand.

Admittedly the designers could have easily become stuck in a rut of continually reinventing the wheel and trying not to shake up tradition, knowing how well the standard styles were selling, but instead they've tried new innovations and colour combinations regularly. Fluoro, double colour and metallic options have all proved popular, suggesting there's no let-up in satchel fever, and the company's products are stocked in over 100 countries. 

 These fluoro music bags would certainly brighten up a dull music lesson...

Taking a look at the latest styles, I have a feeling that Bellflower Blue is going to look great with S/S14 outfits, whilst the patent croc print clutches are real investment pieces for smarter occasions. The Cambridge Satchel Company has come a long way from its humble kitchen table beginnings, and I'll be eagerly anticipating its next move.

Mirror, Mirror: three brands launching beauty lines in 2013

It seems that the latest move for fashion brands isn't to launch a line of sunglasses or team up with a drinks company - it's beauty that's got them all motivated. Look at the retail success stories and it's not hard to see why, with Giorgio Armani counters consistently delivering cult products to beauty halls, American Apparel getting its claws well and truly into the heady world of nail varnish, and Topshop's lipsticks being a reliable staple in many women's make-up bags.

 [Marc Jacobs images via Popsugar].

Of course, with every fantastic cosmetics line like Gareth Pugh for MAC (be still, my beating heart), there is always the risk of a dud - does anyone remember the ill-fated Rodarte range, also for MAC, which made light of the feminicide in Juarez and was therefore scrapped at the last minute? The best thing is to stick to inoffensive but cool product names, a mixture of quirky disco colours and wearable everyday shades, and ultra-glossy packaging. Here are the newest three ranges you should be adding to your shopping list pretty soon.

It's all about orange.

 This burgundy polish is perfect for autumn.

Marc Jacobs

Whilst there have been a few tempting images doing the rounds on the internet over the last few weeks, Popsugar was the site to release a preview of the entire collection. Ok, so nobody can get their hands on it until 9th August at Sephora (sadly we're Sephora-less in the UK), but there's no reason not to drool in anticipation over the wearable colour palette being delivered by the great Mr. Jacobs. Many of the products are the kind of thing that a Jackie Collins heroine would wear; slick tangerine lipstick, sparkling champagne nail polish, pillar box red lip gloss, topped off with an eyeliner called Magic Marc'er (utter genius). These little gems are the perfect kick-ass finishing touch to your beauty regime and I'm sure they'll sell like hot cakes.

 Make Up heel [image via Polyvore].

 The famous Pigalle [image via Net-a-Porter.com].

Christian Louboutin

Now, this story may be old news - it first broke in May 2012 - but there's no sign yet of the collection created by Louboutin with Batallure Beauty, despite him recently stoking the fire with a sound bite about women being 'unsophisticated' without make-up. Knowing that the great man is famous for his red-soled vertiginous heels (most notably the Pigalle style), it's safe to say that his cosmetics probably won't be aimed at wallflowers either, and red is bound to play a part in the colour palette. However, there's also a high chance of seeing some serious bling and loads of mad-cap unrestrained creative expression - very different from the simplicity of the Pigalle. After all, his shoes have been inspired by bondage, googly eyes, Guinness cans and the pointe position of ballet dancers. When the range does eventually launch in late 2013, you can bet that Louboutin stalwarts like Dita Von Teese and Daphne Guinness will be the first to sport it. 

 The original Marchesa dress that inspired the wraps [image via Fashionista.com].

 Ready for 3D designer talons? [Image via Fashionista.com].

Marchesa for Revlon

Marchesa often makes waves for dressing glamazons on the red carpet, but this partnership with Revlon offers a bite sized - or finger sized - slice of luxury to an audience that can only dream of dressing like a star. Nail wraps are already a huge trend, so creating designs inspired by the brand's catwalk creations is a simple but effective way of spreading their appeal. All that's been revealed for now is that the first part of the collection will consist of eight different sets, called 3D Jewel Appliqués, and they'll hit the US in October - again, no word yet on when they'll be available to UK customers. The sneak preview image of one set shows gorgeous jade and turquoise florals inspired by a lace and tulle dress. Further editions from the collection will cover make-up and brushes, which should be similarly feminine and sophisticated. 

So, with all of these cosmetics lines dropping in the near future, the question is: who'll be next to jump on the bandwagon? I'm dreaming of eco-friendly Vivienne Westwood lipsticks, shocking pink Roksanda Ilincic blusher and punchy House of Holland nail art pens...

Style in Almodovar's 'Women on the Verge...'

Anyone who's watched a Pedro Almodovar film will appreciate that the director likes his women strong, captivating and usually taking centre stage, but when I sat down to watch Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown (1988), I wasn't quite prepared for how arresting their costumes would be. 

Every female character had a distinct look that only she could carry off, whilst the only memorable male outfit was the bizarre cartoon-esque get-up sported by Madrid's most sensitive taxi driver - think big 80s bleached hair and a heavy dose of lime green, against a leopard print taxi interior. 

 These well dressed women hint at how much fun you'll have with the film if you love style.

 The slick and eye-catching opening titles.

This is the man to thank: costume designer Jose Maria de Cossio.

This film not only had major staying power because of its complex plot and unexpectedly good one-liners during traumatic moments, but it struck me that the costumes were impossible to get out of my head. I kept thinking about Pepa's Vans-style trainers and hibiscus-print shirt, contrasted with her more business-like long line cardigans, which she even double-layered at one point. 

 What to wear when your bed bursts into flames, as demonstrated by Pepa (Carmen Maura).

 Pepa examines Ivan's wardrobe.

This calls for two cardigans.

I loved the innocence of her best friend Candela's tube skirt and top ensemble, worn with knee-high socks and creepers - an outfit that could have come straight out of Topshop this season. Candela (Maria Barranco) then borrowed Pepa's black dress, slicked back her hair in true 80s style and took on a much more serious fashion personality, as she tried to get to grips with the crazy and dangerous situation she'd found herself in, which Almodovar has made brilliantly tragi-comic.

 L-R: Marisa (Rossy de Palma), Candela (Maria Barranco) and Carlos (Antonio Banderas).

Candela's working the stripes and the embellished jacket.

A serious event needs a sharper outfit.

For another key character Lucia (Julieta Serrano), fashion was all about looking to the past, because the happiest times of her life were decades old. Cue meticulously applied eyeliner, a beehive wig and childlike accessories such as white tights and a hat that looked like it was once a traffic cone.

The eyeliner excuse: probably used by women around the world. As said by Lucia to Carlos.

Totally incognito.

The most interesting costume moments definitely appeared when things really started to unravel for the women. That meant weird hair and gazpacho-soaked clothing to go with the heightened tension and urgency.

Not quite sticking to smart-casual here, Lucia.

One of the morals of the story, as Pepa explains to Ana (Ana Leza).

This could almost be the basis of a Lichtenstein painting.

Basically, I can't recommend this film enough if you're into costume design and you love the 80s. There's so much expressed by the outfits in Almodovar's Women on the Verge... and it's great to see it lighting up the screen.

Lakme Fashion Week: India's Take on A/W 2012

Felix Bendish knows how to open at Lakme Fashion Week.

Far from there just being four style capitals of the world, Fashion Week takes over in many nations twice a year and brings the new season to buyers and press. You might not get to read as much about them unless you specifically look for designers or round-ups, but it's worth keeping an eye on what the catwalk has to offer when it's not based in London, Paris, Milan or New York. 

Today I'm turning my attention to India, where Lakme Fashion Week is a huge event. I watched the Bollywood film Fashion a few years ago and have been admiring the country's creative output ever since. Here are the designers who you should be watching, if autumn/winter 2012 is anything to go by...

 Aarti Vijay Gupta produced a really intelligent and graphic collection.

Mixing quirky sketches and precise colour wheels and educational charts, this was Aarti Vijay Gupta's exercise in how to add a touch of the cerebral to your clothes. The glasses worn by the models might have taken the geek motif a bit too literally but otherwise this was a really well-produced range that wouldn't look out of place in a British boutique. I definitely want the last dress in the image above - the anatomical print is just too good to miss.

 Dolly J's take on autumn/winter reminded me a lot of Ralph Lauren.

I could see a lot of Ralph Lauren's extravagant evening gowns and autumnal colour palette in Dolly J's range, but she gave it an injection of personality that added Bollywood flavour with the embellished top seen on the left and the layers of different fabrics and finishes on the chest of the dress on the right. And, whereas Lauren kept things severe with Downton Abbey decorum, Dolly's outfits were a lot more free-spirited.

 One of the coolest trends I spotted was 'half and half':

cutting vertically into the design with a different colour or style.

L-R: Kiran &; Meghna; Gaurav Gupta; Tahera Peeran.

I love the cut-and-paste style of panelled clothing (apart from horrendous 90s patchwork denim - yes, it still makes me shudder) and when it's done as well as these three examples then it shows how much fun you can have when you divert from the norm. My favourite is Gaurav Gupta's pink dress with half a sleeved jacket, which takes a leaf out of Vivienne Westwood's book with an Anglomania feel.

 Some designs gave a strong nod to Western fashion. 

L-R: Drashta Sarvaiya; Nupur Kanoi (looking very Balmain); Mrinalini.

 A trio of eye-catching shapes on the catwalk that caught my attention. 

L-R: Gaurav Gupta; Virtues; Pankaj & Nidhi. 

Virtues went for a sculptural edge with a distinct Gothic-meets-folklore feel.

Another unmissable collection that I was drawn to was the folkloric Virtues, with heavy boots and bold trims contrasting with flowing fabrics. What's more, most of it was distinctly wearable and wouldn't look out of place on the red carpet or in the pages of Western fashion magazines. I definitely think that more fashion editors should look to Indian designers for inspiration and photo shoot material, as there's a wealth of talent out there.

[All images taken from Vogue India and the official Lakme Fashion Week website].

Shop Review: Monki, Carnaby Street

 [All photos my own. Please ask before reproducing]. 

Space-age bubbles in the windows of Monki.

It's always exciting when a new flagship store pops up in London, but Monki is particularly tempting thanks to its lineage (the sister brand of H&M and COS) and its reasonable prices. What this brand is offering is something between its two successful relatives - the sassiness of H&M's spring brights and its loud Divided range, crossed with the minimalist cool of COS. Case in point: the mannequins were dressed in putty and black Aztec prints with shift or batwing dresses and futuristic boots. I was excited to walk in.

 The neatly scallop-edged shop fittings.

On entering, things did feel a little bizarre. Although it was a massive space, the shop certainly felt more claustrophobic than it should, thanks to over-the-top fittings and garish fixtures such as ornate chandeliers, mirrored ceiling tiles and some very odd pink, yellow and green decorations on the stairs. This is not the place to come with a hangover, unless you're a sadist. If you can ignore the young teenage girl's boudoir that the interior designer seemed to be replicating, you can get to the good stuff: the stock.

 Well-draped basics were par for the course.

Colour blocking was the name of the game in Monki, with bold and largely plain items across the store that would be easy to pair with each other. Even the patterns seemed to be secretly harmonising with the garments either side of them. The main shapes were boxy jackets, batwing jersey t-shirts, crossover draped skirts and retro 3/4 sleeve anoraks, with prices starting from £6.00 for basic tees and £25-£35 for silk shirts. 

The accessories were also very strong, and I can see them being a major attraction for shoppers. Prices varied from £4.00 for green apple earrings and £6.00 for a leather purse, to £15.00 for an angular clutch bag in black or neon green.

A riot of colour and some beautiful buttery leather.

I couldn't resist these boots (£35). Available in three colourways across the shop - mustard, red and putty - they were so simple and yet incredibly flattering, with a platform wedge. After a bit of wavering, I plumped for red and squeezed myself into a size 39 (note to staff: applying the security tag on the elasticated section makes it a bloody good achievement to get them on your feet, regardless of being a theft deterrent).

So, will Monki survive in a recession? The shop fit is garish enough to attract attention from younger crowds, and the fashion weeklies are sure to love the clothing shapes, so I think it's safe to say that the brand will continue to be on the radar for some time. As long as the prices are kept reasonable there will be a place for Monki on the British high street, and I'm sure us Brits will style the clothes in our own eccentric way. Just remember to wear sunglasses if you're easily offended by bright colours.

LFW Snapshot: Reporting Duty for Grazia

 [Please click to enlarge all photos and ask before reproducing]. 

Holly Fulton's sleek fuschia trousers on the catwalk.

 With a smattering of butterflies, this dress was subtle enough to please even the least daring Fulton fan.

 It's all in the detail.

 Palm prints on Fulton knitwear, which apparently arrived the night before the show!

 Juxtaposition of patterns and black/turquoise balance.

 Last looks.

Backstage, waiting to interview Holly, we got a sneak peek of Ashish's collection before it was shown. 

The yellow top (second from front of rail) says 'Hare Krishna'. 

 In the buzz surrouding Holly, I couldn't help noticing one fellow interviewer's bag. Leopard lust has struck...

 Another look at Ashish. You can just see the blue tie-dye dress and the grey tie-dye knit.

 I love the motivational words scribbled on the backing boards of the BFC Show Space.

 L-R: Angela Buttolph, Editor-at-Large of Grazia; a representative of Talk PR; Holly Fulton herself.

 Blogger and semi-finalist Aelrid Turner (love her name) of Olive Collar, with Angela Buttolph.

Aelrid had just returned from a trip to Stockholm.

 Angela with blogger and semi-finalist Sheree Milli of Glitz 'n' Grime. 

Sheree and I went for a cup of tea afterwards - not quite a cocktail, but much-needed!

 Angela Buttolph and me outside the BFC Show Space. Excuse my creepy smile but the light was bright so I was semi-squinting - nope, haven't got the knack of fashionable posing. 

My t-shirt is Gareth Pugh for Topshop NEWGEN, the skirt and boots are vintage and the lipstick is Revlon 8 Hour Colour Stay Ultimate Lipstick Liquid (dear God, what a mouthful) in Top Tomato.

Great shot of Sheree as she posed for a street style photographer opposite us. 

I had an incredible day at London Fashion Week, and this is such a small percentage of my photos. Stay tuned for a sneak peek behind the scenes at Grazia HQ, as well as my own street style snaps at Somerset House. Aelrid, Sheree and Angela were all lovely and it was a pleasure to meet them and see the show together.

Lastly, you might be interested to hear that I'm nominated for Grazia's Fashion Blogger of the Year. You can vote by clicking on the link and choosing between Aelrid Turner, Sheree Milli and me.