In Praise of 100 Beards: Interview with Jonathan Daniel Pryce

 Ali, British Library, London. 

[All photographs by Jonathan Daniel Pryce].

 Atip, Shoreditch High Street, London.

I've been an admirer of the photographers over at street style blog Les Garcons de Glasgow for quite some time, as well as offshoot men's style blog Another Garcon, and was pleased to see that Jonathan Daniel Pryce was launching a new project, 100 Beards. The idea is simple but very engaging: snap a different man and his beard for 100 days, recording the results on a dedicated Tumblr. Seeing this week that he'd completed the first quarter of the project, I was keen to find out how things were going. 

"The beard trend has been growing for the last five or six years, I'd say, and it's now reaching public consciousness on a widespread level," says Jonathan. He believes that it has "another three or four years" before the fuss dies down. Not only is now the perfect time to look at facial fuzz in terms of it's value in fashion, but also because it's something that really interests Jonathan: "I think there is a real subculture - every man with a beard seems to have a knowing look in his eye."

 Gregory, Swanfield Street, London.

The current hot favourite in terms of popularity is the portrait of Gregory on Swanfield Street, which has been the most shared photo so far. My personal favourite is Ali, photographed at the British Library; there's a real intensity to the image and I also love how his beard merges into the rest of his hair and yet it's a completely different style, peppered with grey. I'm also drawn to Derek in London Fields, the knowing look of Michael on Leonard Street and the piercing that cuts through Atip's beard (shot on Shoreditch High Street). What's more, Atip's stripy loose-fit Comme des Garcons t-shirt is cleverly set against rigid striped shutters, making for an interesting mixture of lines.

I wanted to ask Jonathan if there was any correlation between how a man keeps his beard and how he dresses, assuming that the neatness of one would equal the neatness of the other:

"What I have noticed is those with sculpted beards tend to dress in a sporty, high street looks. My favourite though is actually an inverse correlation, which is something I find quite frequently. By that I mean a big, bushy, unkempt beard with a sharp, tailored suit and button down shirt."

The project already seems to be spreading like wildfire, with Twitter users in particular getting excited about both the concept and execution. "People feel they have ownership over it, which is a great feeling," says Jonathan. "I'm really pleased with how it's going, although it's much harder than first expected!"

 John, Evelyn Street, London.

These days it's not uncommon for blogs to turn into books or for bloggers to become hot property. So where does he see the project going? "In terms of end results, I'm really looking forward to the exhibition which I'm planning at the moment and looking into getting a book published." I can certainly see these images working on a larger scale and lighting up a gallery. There's also Jonathan's other project, Superior Interior, which finds out if your dress sense extends to how you dress your home, and is hosted on Another Garcon.

One concern that Jonathan has is that "I don't want it to just become the hipster show," referring to the current trend for beards (and what I called the 'Shoreditch/Hoxton hipster style'). His solution is to be as diverse as possible, "selecting a broad range of facial hair." You can definitely see this just by scrolling through a small range of photos, but on a grander scale it's going to be a fascinating look at different approaches to the beard. I had no idea it was such a personal and idiosyncratic thing, but now I can see that it's a huge form of self-expression for those who decide to put down the razor. Not only that, but individual participants have their own stories to tell. Jonathan enthuses:

"The most touching photo for me is John. He emailed me last week thanking me, as his mother has days left to live and smiled for the first time in weeks when shown the photograph. It's those sorts of moments that mean a lot to me."

If you want to see the photos and learn how to participate in 100 Beards then do check out the Tumblr site and see for yourself, as well as looking for the #100Beards hashtag on Twitter. It's great to see that men's style is being given platforms such as these, and I look forward to seeing how it concludes.

NYFW Fall 2012: Nicholas K's Cowboys and Flappers Mash-Up

[All images taken from Style.com]

What we've learned from Nicholas K: the bigger the hat, the bigger the strut. The hint of cowboy was undeniable with this kind of headwear. Exaggerated proportions made it even more fun, with rolled up sleeves and baggy boots to complement the look, and that fierce reddish orange eye make-up.

This ensemble reminded me of travel photography focusing on harsh landscapes and often inhospitable environments (I'm thinking rocky outcrops, freezing wastelands and unforgiving desert sun). The block shade of mid-grey is a nice contrast to the harsh khaki, black and white tones elsewhere in this show.

Another element of travel came through for me in this catwalk collection: the notion of layering up and wearing as many of your clothes as possible, so you travel lighter. Note the awkward hat, coat, necklace and boots that make an altogether disjointed but exciting outfit, especially when placed against the flapper wigs that all the female models wore, alongside fringed pieces and draped boyish vests underneath that celebrated the boyish 1920s body ideal.

In the sleeker menswear silhouettes later on then there's more of a 'cityboy does western' vibe coming across - everything's polished, tucked in and neat, in contrast to the earlier frenetic layering and undone buckles. This suggests that Nicholas K isn't just aiming at one type of man or dresser; you can find something in this collection whether you like to look genuinely bedraggled or you just want a hint of bed hair.

The whole collection was an interesting combination of influences that made everything appear fresh, even though many of the pieces may have looked unremarkable in their own right. It's all about the layering and juxtaposition of forms for Nicholas K, and he makes a strong case.

Preview Post: The A/W 2012 Menswear Report for This Affected Youth

One thing I have been up to recently is writing for This Affected Youth. The site, which is written by young journalists and writers and covers all aspects of current affairs, is where I discuss fashion and culture in the public eye. Of course, not every reader knows or cares about the difference between seasonal trends, but my aim is to show them that style affects you whether you realise it or not. Somewhere in your conscious decision to wear a plain green t-shirt is a reference to what someone created before you even bought it or thought about needing that very piece. What's more, expressing yourself in what you wear doesn't have to be fickle or complicated or dictated by entire catwalk shows; you might be inspired by the revival of a certain era or the microtrend of brick patterns for A/W 2012 (which, personally, I love). Just don't pretend you don't care if, in fact, you actually enjoy working out which jeans will look better with that jacket, or you can't wait to trawl vintage shops for the perfect unique hat. Just go with it. 

Anyway, my report for Autumn/Winter 2012 from the catwalks of Milan and Paris was a lengthy trawl through the fashion sites and an analysis of what seems to be preying on more than one designer's mind. You'll find that the colour palette is darker and more subdued, but still fun; you'll also be pleased to know that there are some very quirky and individual looks heading our way, courtesy of Frankie Morello and Jean-Paul Gaultier. 

[Please click to enlarge images. All-over biscuit tones were very big. L-R: Calvin Klein, Milan; Maison Martin Margiela, Paris; Kenzo, Paris.]

[Brick and paisley were two strong and irreverent print choices. L-R: Jean-Paul Gaultier, Paris; Moschino, Milan; Marc Jacobs, Milan.]

[Microtrends included smartened punk and over-sized fabric. L-R: Frankie Morello, Milan; Ann Demeulemeester, Paris; Yohji Yamamoto, Paris.]

To see my article in full, please click the link here. All images were reproduced from Fashionising.com.

Abandoned Clothes Tell A Story

I saw this neglected pair of men's trousers outside the Cockpit Theatre in North London the other weekend. I have no idea why they were abandoned and placed over these iron railings - they certainly weren't to do with the theatre's production - but I just had to take a photo. I wonder if anyone got home and realised they were missing something crucial from their outfit, or is this just part of someone's rage at an ex-boyfriend? If anyone spots any other roadside items that might go with these trousers in the vicinity then we might be onto something.

Versace for H&M: Menswear Looking Fierce

[All images courtesy of H&M].
What with Versace being incredibly luxurious and unobtainable for us plebs, and with H&M being a powerhouse of global high street fashion, it seems only right that the two companies should have a meeting of design minds and develop a one-off collection. Previous collaborators with H&M have included Viktor & Rolf (intelligent style), Madonna (quite chavvy, most ended up in the sale) and Lanvin (flirtatious and fun), so Versace is joining an illustrious list. As you can see from the image above, the menswear drop is looking particularly exciting - it's edgy and moody, without alienating the more mature man. You could wear that leather jacket aged 20 or 50 if you styled it right, i.e. no accompanying mid-life crisis motorbike and bimbo. I also love the cut-off shorts, but there is definitely an age limit on those.

I'm strangely attracted to this all-pink ensemble, even though it's quite attention-seeking. There's just something cool/vaguely OCD about being this freakishly co-ordinated, and the suit just looks expensive. It's a great cut.

There's something distinctly fun about this shirt and I like it, despite (or maybe because of?) its potential to make people's eyes hurt. The pattern is sharp and it would look brilliant with a dark jacket and some tailored trousers. Although not everyone would find this print wearable, it's a lot easier on the eye than much of the ladieswear, which was sequin-heavy and full of lurid colours that were a little hard to stomach.

Out of the female choice, there were two dark looks that I loved (the rest I would struggle to justify buying in Primark, let alone at the price of this collection, which tends to be £50+ per piece). The black dress seen here has a gorgeous bodice top with ribbon edges, and its flared skirt will be flattering for big stomachs or boyish frames.

A less forgiving number, this studded leather dress is highly dramatic and perhaps worth splashing the cash. With the studs arranged to highlight the body frame, it's going to make you feel special. Sadly the rest of the ladieswear was just too gaudy for me to enjoy, but if you want to invest in some Versace on a budget then head to H&M from 17th November for palm print leggings and bright orange.

Conceptual Menswear: Top Three

[Image via H&M's website]. This t-shirt speaks for itself. It's a bit different, like a snapshot of a bloke's head, but it's not one of those slightly offensive/bad taste slogan tees that you can't wear in polite company. It is also the kind of item that will break the ice at a dull party (yes, they do make clothes for such occasions). What's more, it's just £7.99 from H&M.

[Image via Topman's website]. Is it a map? Is it a jumper? No, it's a map-jumper (surprisingly Topman didn't use that in the product title). This sweatshirt (£30) is nicely uniting the geek chic trend with a print that's a little more unusual and arty. The teal colour makes a change from typical black (and it's also very hot for AW/11-12, so expect to see similarly shaded products hitting the shops soon). I am now going to be looking out for map-clad men on a street near me.

[Image via the Mr. Porter website]. Brought to you by the label COTEetCIEL, here's a rucksack that doesn't look like it's been within ten feet of a hiker/school child. It looks like a sculpture, even. The folds of the fabric are adept at disguising the traditional form and making it look like something completely new. Although it'll set you back the princely sum of £135 (a wee bit more than a plain Eastpak number), you're guaranteed to look pretty damn suarve and sophisticated. In fact, this rucksack has been specifically designed to fit your laptop, so you can tuck it away and pretend that it contains important state documents, rather than yet another sales spreadsheet.

ASOS Menswear: Essentials with a fashion twist

Three to get you pulling shapes...
The Stripe T-shirt gets a Fred Perry logo and suddenly becomes smart/casual.
The ASOS Sweat Shirt with tan shoulder detail looks sharp.
This Contrast V Neck from Villain is quirky but wearable and would look great with jeans.

Three to get you into yellow...
This King of Spades T-Shirt is very cool, with the neon effect and bright sunshine hues.
For a more eye-catching stripe, look no further than this Boat Neck Top.
The mustard Shorts wouldn't suit everyone, but they'd work well with Dr. Martens or Vans and a tight t-shirt.

Three to get you accessorizing...
A Backpack for all seasons (except intense snow)? This is man heaven.
For an edgier approach to eyewear, go for these Angular Sunglasses. I have a huge head (basically man-size) and I'd definitely consider these blokey shades to make things a little more stylish.
I'm an anatomy addict since writing about it in an Art Theory essay. This Spine Pendant is a bargain at £8.00 and it's not offensively gory. Definitely makes a change from those naff St. Christopher rings from Argos that so many unimaginative men insist on wearing (urgh).

[Images taken from ASOS.com].

I'm really impressed with ASOS' Menswear department at the moment. It covers the trends without alienating its customers with unwearable fashion. The buyers know what the average bloke wants and needs in their wardrobe, and gives them a push in the right direction. There's also a very good range of designer pieces for the male shopper, so it's worth looking for special occasions as well as everyday browsing.

Graduate Fashion Week: Menswear Making Tracks

[Images courtesy of Brett de Jager and the London College of Fashion].

This collection, taking inspiration from tribal clothing and grungy Western streetwear, is called Punx on Safari. Brett de Jager has captured the mood of modern living, with its elements from exotic culture and home life being juxtaposed for an exhilirating final result. The colours are bold and combine dayglo paint with traditional plaid. Silhouettes are relaxed and often include multiple panels, teamed with spiked footwear that makes a statement.

Menswear to lust after

[Images taken from River Island online].

A male friend of mine was recently lamenting the lack of good quality menswear available that doesn't tick the 'lad in Ibiza' box, or the 'gangsta wannabe from a cosy suburb' box. It is pretty tough, because most fashion outlets tend to target one of these core types of male dresser and neglect the ones who just want something a little bit different. Here are three of my top picks from River Island's menswear range -

• The printed t-shirt that doesn't make you cringe (Pause t-shirt, £14.99). I've lost count of the number of blokes I've seen wearing cheesy tees with slogans that imply they are God's gift to women. This option is much more laid back and happens to be quite versatile - nothing to offend your granny, but perfect for a day or night out. They also do a 'Rewind' one, should you feel the need to collect both.
• The glam-rocker-meets-Goth boots (Black smart Western-style ankle boots, £49.99). Yes, I know a lot of men think that pointy shoes are for posers, but these are seriously cool. They'd be great for a job interview, or indeed something a lot less important, and they have the added bonus of being more water-resistant than your old trainers with holes in.
• The patriotic bag that doesn't feature corgis or anything about Kate and William (Stone Union Jack holdall bag, £39.99). I do love a good Union Jack print, almost as much as leopard, though obviously a man in leopard print would not be a brilliant look. This bag is functional but also a bit quirky, so you won't lose it easily and it'll add a bit of colour if you're fond of wearing all black or neutrals. You can fit loads in a holdall, so expect this to serve you well for many a weekend or holiday trip.
  

Of course, menswear isn't just restricted to men. I would quite happily buy any of these items myself - as long as you're a size 6 or above then male footwear will fit you, too. A man's t-shirt can make a great slouchy top or even a dress, with barely any adjustments. As for bags - well, there don't tend to be gender labels on the key styles. I will definitely return to spotlighting menswear, but this is just a taste of what the high street has to offer.

Boston Street Style

In general, the style in Boston was not as striking as I'd hoped. Americans tend to rely on basics and classic rules of dressing - simple shift dresses, bags in 'safe' colours, plaid shirts, utilitarian sportswear for those outdoor adventures. This is the country that brought us denim (for which I am extremely grateful) but it also brought us Lady Gaga, though you'd scarcely believe it sometimes. I do like the fact that Bostonians are not as slavish with their trends, as New York dressers are, but I wish that more people would be adventurous with their choices. The coolest look I saw was the man sitting down on the grass in Boston Common (photo 3), wearing a bowler hat and a long stone trench coat, which is the typical uniform of the female Shoreditch dweller in London but it looked totally fresh on him.
Anyway, above are some examples of what I discovered.

Musical Muse

(Images via Standart News and Last FM).

For those of you who didn't see the amazing Mark Knopfler program on BBC Four last night, you're in for a treat. Not only is this man amazing at writing lyrics and creating the most incredible guitar riffs and solos, but he is also known for his distinctive look in the 1980s. I knew he was famous for those little headbands, but I'd never quite appreciated the whole ensemble until I was watching the archive footage on this documentary; it's not only practical (who wants hair in your face when you're boiling on stage?) but it's about ignoring whatever anyone else may be wearing and doing your own thing. There are no logos or considerations for looking cool (besides maybe choosing something in a nice colour or a crazy pattern), because comfort and purpose have overtaken them. With sportswear looming large on the catwalk, the more functional terry towelling headband may yet make a comeback, but I hope this doesn't leave us with a lasting trend. The whole thing about Knopfler is that you can try and imitate what he does, but you'll never do it quite as good as him. I wish more men had the guts to dress however they want, without being restricted to obvious choices or whatever is in the shop window. It's time to be inventive.

Cacharel-Inspired Preppy Moment

After a brief absence from the blog (work/holiday-related), here's what I've been drawn to in recent weeks:
1. The quest for the perfect leather skirt. The one in the image above is from Zara's TRF range and it's pleated with an A-line shape. It took some getting used to as my previous favourite was a pencil skirt from a charity shop, which I've now lost to my sister's wardrobe. The Zara skirt is an imitation leather, which makes it more pliable and soft, but it doesn't have the toughness of leather, which I do kind of miss.
2. Men's shirts. I wear a lot of these for my part-time job, because our women's versions are often too short in the body and not as wearable print-wise, and now they've become a bit of a wardrobe staple. The shirt above is a delicate floral which is something I've been trying to avoid for Spring (it feels a bit predictable), but it jumped out at me the other day as the perfect contrast to the skirt. I added the lace bow, which I made from tying a remnant of lace around the collar. I wore this with purple brogues and a large grey coat with an asymmetric hem.
3. Navy opaque tights. My mum is a big fan of these and I normally plump for black, but navy feels less obvious and wintery. She looked quite proud when I bought my first pair!
4. Rodarte's collection for SS/11. On hearing a description of this, you'd think it was hideous - imitation wood prints and a blue and white design which appears to be taken from a willow patterned plate - but somehow it really works. There's something about the 'back to nature' element of it which would make a great antidote to the neon colours which seem to be creeping back into fashion this season. I'm also excited to see Rodarte's costume designs for the new Black Swan film, which sound sumptuous.

Will Gaz7etta Work?

[Image credits: Gaz7etta cover from Marketing Week, and the widely used Helvetica Man symbol by Lupton and Miller].

The end of October saw the launch of a new men's magazine from Bauer Media, designed to become the male equivalent of the (very successful) Grazia. This pilot issue was distributed inside copies of the aforementioned Grazia as well as men's titles such as Mojo, Empire and Golf World, with a full launch planned for next year. I was interested to see what this new magazine could bring to the table, and indeed who it was aimed at, as I often find that Grazia provides good fashion and reading material but very few featured products that are within my budget. I use it as an aspirational magazine rather than a direct shopping catalogue, and most of my peers are in a similar position. Taking a look at the front cover of Gaz7etta, it seems that some of its content is also marketed at the more affluent members of society (supercars, anyone?), but other features are more suited to the 'lad's mag' genre, as they feature an innuendo-based headline on Katy Perry, and the obligatory football story. I am also intrigued by the promise that you can make £1500 this lunchtime, because my automatic and very pessimistic assumption is that men up and down the country will be turning into gigolos or selling their grannies in order to achieve this goal. With this juxtaposition of cover stories in mind, I am inclined to believe that Gaz7etta hasn't yet honed in on a specific target audience.

Inside the magazine, the editor's letter adds further confusion, as his casual way of speaking - 'I know what you're thinking: dude, this is awesome. Which is true' - doesn't quite sit comfortably with Grazia's description of Gaz7etta as 'The new style magazine for men'. Have you heard any stylish, supercar-owning man say the words 'dude' or 'awesome' in the last ten years? I thought not. The editor also says that the bizarre title spelling of Gaz7etta is not about 'trademarking the title', but he claims it's about the seven reasons for enjoying the publication, which just sounds a little tame to me. There would be nothing wrong with taking out the pointless number and never speaking of it again.

When exploring the content, I must admit that a lot of the shorter pieces are very inventive, such as the traditional format of Going Up/Going Down popularity charts being presented as 'Buy and Sell: this week's winners and losers in life's stock exchange', and a very revealing look at celebrity donors to political parties in 'Who's Funding Whom?'. But then the annoying juxtapositions start again, with a serious political comment box nestled next to a photo story of Heidi Montag trying to get publicity on Malibu Beach, which seems to be lifted straight out of Heat Magazine. When I reach the fashion shoot, which is very well presented, I half expect a sidebar discussing Keith Lemon or Kerry Katona (thankfully there was none present). I am genuinely surprised, and very relieved, to find that they have allowed good content to sit undisturbed on the page. I must also point out the strapline for the photoshoot, which tells the reader 'Your soundtrack: Joy Division. Your reading material: William S. Burroughs'; this is such a subtle but clever detail, immediately getting you into the mood of the shoot and also the kind of man that the fashion would suit. I wish that more women's magazines would adopt such a strapline, instead of telling us that everyone is wearing shearling and expecting us to just get on with it. Setting the mood is very important when describing fashion, and this is something that Gaz7etta has done well - in fact, their style pages are among the best in the whole publication.

So, after reading Gaz7etta from cover to cover, what is my final verdict? It must be incredibly difficult launching a new male magazine, but this project seems to have given itself extra hurdles in trying to reach out to a very wide range of men. The 'something for everyone' approach would be far more acceptable if content was divided into clear sections and articles or stories sat well with each other on the page. Gaz7etta also needs to decide its voice - is it a sophisticated older brother, or a lad who wants to talk celebrities whilst pretending he can afford a posh coat and Clinique skincare? And if it really is a style magazine then this element should take precedence over endless football references, because not all men enjoy football or relate to it. I will be intrigued to see which changes, if any, have been implemented when Gaz7etta launches properly in 2011, and if that daft name has been scrapped.