Burberry Prorsum S/S13: Henry VIII Redux, with music by Tom Odell

When it comes to debating the S/S13 catwalk shows in real-time, it's hard to pick favourites and decide what to write about, so quite often I just end up leaving the rest in a mental 'To Do' pile and never quite getting round to discussing them. This year, one of my blogging resolutions (don't worry, there aren't that many) was to rediscover some of the weird and wonderful shows later on. So, let's begin...

 [Image via Style.com]

Tudor elegance and exaggeration made for a strong range from Christopher Bailey.

My first choice was Burberry, completely by accident, as I've recently been spending a lot of time listening to music by Tom Odell. When YouTube started auto-filling 'Tom Odell Burberry', I knew where I'd heard his song 'Another Love' before - as the opening tune for the Quality Street-esque womenswear Prorsum collection back in September 2012 at London Fashion Week. I'm going to see Tom in March when he'll be gigging in Brighton and I can't wait to hear more of his stuff. For the record (inadvertent music-related joke there), his song worked brilliantly with the collection and it hinted at some of the drama in the clothing; capes, playing with proportions, flashes of colour and unexpectedly brilliant metallics.

Here's the video, along with other music by Birdy and Ren Harvieu.

Regal Inspiration for the Collection

The most obvious thematic reference I could find from the show, which I severely doubt even appeared on the mood boards at Burberry HQ, was Henry VIII. Here's why.

 [All images via Style.com]

Exaggerated Shoulders and Arms

In portraits you'll notice that Henry was shown as being incredibly large, with huge arms and shoulders worthy of an American football player. Although he wasn't the thinnest bloke around, he actually used a lot of padding in his clothing to make himself appear bigger, therefore coming across as more powerful and domineering to his public and to any potential enemies. It's basically the equivalent of an animal puffing itself up to look more threatening.

For Burberry Prorsum the puffed up aesthetic was also used to look powerful, but it also came across as fashion-forward thanks to the beautiful metallic material and the minimalist outfits. No heavy embroidery and detail needed here, unlike the Tudors, who had a penchant for embellishment.

Capes

Ok, so Burberry went for a mixture of capelets (seen above) and full capes, but either way they looked great. Whereas the models look chic, Henry would have worn a cape for things like hunting, not hanging around at cocktail parties, but I'm sure he'd approve of these tailored numbers.

Green Sleeves

It was said that the song Greensleeves was written about Anne Boleyn during her pregnancy. Those Tudors certainly knew how to make morning sickness fun. In light of this, it would be fairly apt if Kate Middleton (the most famous 21st century royal sufferer) started wearing some olive green pieces from the collection.

 Holbein Blue

Hans Holbein the Younger was a really popular artist at the time of Henry VIII and painted royalty - including the man himself - on many occasions. One of his signature colours was this beautiful teal blue which he often used in the background of his paintings. Holbein's portrait of Henry VIII was called 'the best piece of propaganda ever' by the BBC (he portrayed the king as a strong and impressive man, rather than the ailing 45-year-old that he actually was). Anyway, Henry might not have ever been painted with this colour, but it's still something that I closely associate with him. It's also really striking on the catwalk, especially amongst all those jewel tones.

Gold

It was either fresh and impossibly shiny or burnished to perfection, but there was more than a hint of gold for S/S13. The Tudors couldn't get enough of the stuff in their castles, palaces and ceremonies, so it's hardly surprising that we should find some here. Christopher Bailey's designs were tempting thanks to clever tailoring and flattering ruched fabric. The gold jacket in the centre is particularly eye-catching, though it might not be as easy to carry off in the British suburbs than in a piece of fashion editorial.

 Ready for Battle

That nipped-in waist and those power-dressing jackets made me think of Tudors in combat, whilst the fluted material looked a bit like gauntlet gloves or Elizabethan ruffs (from the era of Henry's daughter). Again, it's about exaggerated forms and creating a silhouette that makes the wearer seem more impressive. I also loved the tailored cups on the trench coat (centre), which looked like something to be worn in a fashion battle.

And here are three Henry VIII directions that the collection thankfully didn't take:

• Gout
• Multiple wives
• Beheading

But hey, let's leave something for A/W 2013, guys.

In all seriousness, there was so much inspiration to take away from Burberry Prorsum this season that it was hard to narrow down the selection. Though the creative team might not have been thinking of fearsome monarchs at the time, there's something decadent and definitely Tudor about the collection that I absolutely love.

Fred Perry x No Doubt: A Supercool Collaboration for 2013

Be still, my beating heart - it's time to rock steady as one of the most perfectly matched collaborative efforts of the fashion and music world hits stores in early 2013. Say hello to a meeting of stylish minds as the talented team at Fred Perry fuses with the unutterably cool band No Doubt, whose recent revival could not be more welcome in my eyes. Having had much of my childhood and teenage years defined by songs like Don't Speak, Hella Good and Ex-Girlfriend, I was really excited to see what this collaboration would look like. 

Not your average bomber jacket - this one has the edge of Gwen Stefani (£150). 

[All images via FredPerry.com]

What I'd style it with: 

Feel free to mix up your look with this one, as the jacket combines a classic American shape with British tartan. Bombers are great for teaming with black miniskirts and Doc Martens, but if you want to smarten up the look then team yours with oxblood or navy heeled ankle boots instead. Keep make-up minimal: just add a slick of lead singer Gwen's failsafe red lipstick - I've heard that she uses MAC's Russian Red.

 The classic slim fit shirt (£60) gets its reggae on.

What I'd style it with:

There's no question that this piece works best with trousers, but the style is fairly flexible - skintight, drop-waist with braces, capri pants or even one of this season's single-stripe trousers, seen everywhere from George at Asda to J. Crew. Just make sure you don't wear it with flares under any circumstances, or you really will be taking things too far. Instead, be playful with make-up and add liquid eyeliner in one of the reggae colours from the No Doubt stripe - red, yellow or green - before either slicking back your hair or adding a quiff.

 There's a colourful but preppy edge to the v-neck sweater (£90).

What I'd style it with:

I would dress this down for daytime with a vintage calf-length skirt in a plain colour - either a 50s-style full skirt (perhaps with a petticoat) or something a little more figure-hugging from the 40s. Alternatively, tailored charcoal trousers with low-heeled court shoes or slouched boots would also work. If you wanted to accent the magenta in the pattern then now's the time to do it, as both Sonia Rykiel and 3.1 Phillip Lim are currently selling trousers in this colour.

The pieces won't be available until next year, but that isn't going to dampen the enthusiasm for many of us, especially as you can pre-register your interest online to be notified about when each product goes on sale. As with any Fred Perry range, the price point can seem prohibitive, but you are paying for a heritage label which has die-hard brand advocates from all backgrounds: it's just that some of us save up for a little bit longer than others in order to pay for that coveted laurel wreath. 

There's a whole sub-section on their website discussing emotional attachment, which is something that is much rarer with today's in-your-face labels who have to chuck special offers at you every five minutes and run re-tweet and follow competitions to get your attention. The fact that Perry has its own entire music-filled subculture, enjoyed by people of all ages, is a testament to its enduring appeal. By joining together with No Doubt, the brand has proved that it still knows what the people want.

Remembrance Poppies - Patrick Wolf keeps the trend alive

[Image via the Patrick Wolf Palisade Tumblr site].

Here in Britain we have a great tradition of wearing paper poppies as a sign of remembrance for those who fought in wars since WWI. It's not necessarily about patriotism, more about the recognition of courage, peril and loss, with the poppy being chosen after its prevalence in the fields of WWI battle sites. I wear one every year, with particular thoughts for the members of my family who were involved in WWI and WWII, with traumatic and life-changing consequences. The singer Patrick Wolf, who is a favourite of mine, posted an image today on his Tumblr blog of his poppy being proudly worn for his 'soldier ancestors and all those who never came home', and he encouraged others to do the same - 'be sure to wear yours this November'.

I'm glad that Wolf has shown his support for this cause and promoted it to his fans, because it's slowly becoming more and more difficult to raise awareness and for people to properly acknowledge Remembrance Sunday and Armistice Day. When you buy your paper poppy you are not provided with a safety pin to attach it to your clothes because that was deemed too risky by the health and safety police a few years ago, so now you are responsible for your own pin-related injuries. Luckily the Poppy Appeal has been gradually moving towards fashion alternatives so that people can incorporate the cause into their everyday wardrobe more effectively, and without a safety pin problem in sight. I also wanted to explore poppy-inspired looks that take the strong colour or image and use it with stunning results, because I felt it's important to translate this theme to daily life and fashion (the very angles that the Poppy Appeal has taken).

[Image via the Poppy Appeal's Shop].
This large crystal brooch, £25, by Buckley won't get damaged in the rain (a danger of the paper ones) and it's glitzy enough to make an impact. Brooches have been having a major resurgence in fashion over the past couple of years, due to the demand for vintage-inspired clothing and the return to a British heritage look. You could wear this well with a tea dress and brogues.

[Image via the Poppy Appeal's Shop].
At secondary school I used to pin two poppies in my hair, to make them stand out more. These Kleshna enamel hair slides feel like a more mature version of my idea, and they'd also be useful for coaxing your hair into pin curls. Setting you back £12.95 for two, they're more expensive than normal hair accessories but you won't find them anywhere else and you're also helping out the Poppy Appeal with your purchase.

For the ultimate in poppy-inspired decadence, get some inspiration from this Acne Moorea evening dress with eye-catching asymmetric straps. In 'poppy red', it's a stunning colour that would be complemented nicely by the hair slides. Available from My-Wardrobe.com.

Vivienne Westwood's Anglomania range has made use of 'Poppy tartan twill' fabric to create a selection of pieces that would give you the figure of a wartime sweetheart. This blouse (£295) is curve-creating and celebrates the beauty of a feminine figure. It would look great topped off with a poppy necklace and a faux fur tippet. Available from Net-A-Porter.

For a more literal interpretation, Topshop has this ombre-dyed blouse (£40) that contrasts vermillion with inky blue. It's a sophisticated piece, with bell sleeves and a high neck, though you wouldn't want to pin a poppy through the delicate fabric. As an alternative, the Kleshna hair slides would continue the theme, or you could opt for a poppy phone charm from the official Appeal Shop.

Lastly, Jonathan Saunders has gone print crazy with this poppy scarf at Harrods, which takes the motif and uses a variety of colours (everything from turquoise to moss green). It's a very modern take on this traditional flower, but somehow the mix really works. At £289 it's pretty pricey, so you might prefer to make a donation to the Poppy Appeal instead.

Armistice Day - 11th November.
Remembrance Sunday - 13th November.

Iron Maiden Live: Fashion Rocks

Last week I saw one of my favourite bands playing live at the O2 arena in London. Iron Maiden's music may not be to everyone's taste, but the fashion trends of the metalheads in attendance were surprisingly reflective of the catwalk's grunge look for AW/11-12. Here you can see the three guitarists and bass player wearing leather jackets, cut-off band t-shirts, well-worn jeans and rock jewellery. It must be strange for the fans, who have dressed this way since as early as the 1970s, to suddenly find their style becoming copied by designers and the high street.

There's a great feeling of togetherness at an Iron Maiden gig - the fans are incredibly friendly and a very diverse range of people come to see the show, from kids to grandparents (in some cases, a few generations of the family will attend). If you're not already wearing a t-shirt from a previous tour, it's highly tempting to pick out one from the newer merchandise available. The band always has fantastically detailed artwork on each album and official product, as seen here.

This woman had most of the stadium watching her when the spotlight found her in the crowd. She was (rather bravely) dressed in PVC hotpants and matching thigh-high boots, with a very small top. I doubt she was referencing the catwalk, but she wasn't far off the look of Gareth Pugh. If she'd brought in some sharp tailoring and edgy shoulders, perhaps we'd find she was just a fashionista after all.

Guitarist Janick Gers shows that you don't have to be under 40 to rock skinny jeans. His were embellished at the sides and teamed with blindingly white hi-top trainers, a studded belt and a Maiden t-shirt.

One of the most flamboyant parts of an Iron Maiden gig is when a song called The Trooper is played (it's a bit of a classic). This tends to require a very large Union Jack flag and a military jacket for the lead singer, Bruce Dickinson. Bruce may not realise that these coats have been high up in the style stakes for a few years now, making a reappearance every Autumn/Winter season. If he was wearing the trend this time around, the best combination would be tailored trousers, biker boots and maybe some cheeky black braces over an untucked shirt.

Chunky boots are regularly spotted at gigs such as these. They're more of a niche purchase than biker boots or hobnailed numbers, though they might become more popular soon as we've recently seen Creepers (see the shop Underground for the best selection) and Buffalo Shoes both making a comeback. Statement footwear is most definitely in. Like the lady here, you can't go wrong with leopard print tights if you want to bring out your wilder side.

Heavy tattooing, such as this sleeve design, and multiple piercings were frequently on show in the crowd. Tattoos have become deeply watered down as a style statement (except for the full-on fierceness of Rick Genest's anatomical facial piece, which is in a class of its own), due to the vast amount of banal celebrities now sporting them - reality tv stars, Cheryl Cole, X Factor singers, Miley Cyrus, Justin Bieber, etc. Luckily we have seen Chanel launching temporary versions, putting forth the idea of dipping into the look without needing the commitment of a permanent inking. I think that's the safest option, unless you're absolutely sure you will never tire of the design you want.

This young fan let his hair do all the talking, with a gel-based mohawk effect. The advantage of today's styling products is that they are so powerful that you can completely transform your look without having to shave anything off or do anything too drastic, which is great if you need to be more conservative on a daily basis for work.

I find it fascinating that the kind of fashion choices I spotted at this gig are being hurriedly made into the pieces we'll see in the shops tomorrow. In the 90s we didn't really pay much attention to metal music or Goths (it was all about Britpop, American grunge rock or garage music in the UK), yet suddenly we're looking to them for new ideas. You can now walk into Topshop and buy decorative skull rings and ear cuffs; you can head to any high street store and grab some leather leggings or trousers. Sometimes it's good just to step back and examine where this stuff started life, before it was readily available, and the Iron Maiden gig (as well as being amazing musically) was certainly full of unknowing trendsetters.

Three Celebrity 'Creatives' = Three Braincells

[Image via shesomajor.com] Geri Halliwell has blessed the British high street (well, Next) with her talent for stitching pieces of satin together and adding some very 90s spaghetti straps in strategic places. Okay, I do like the shade of the navy one, but otherwise this is essentially a lesson in how celebrity 'designers' can rip people off. There is nothing memorable or unique about these dresses and, as you can see from the lanky models, only short people such as Geri will be able to get a gown that skims the floor.

[Image via BruceJuice]. Every time I read a gossip magazine article about young popstars such as the highly banal Pixie Lott being hailed as 'style icons', a little part of me dies inside. The girl has a stylist who chooses her clothes and guides her towards each trend, making it somewhat laughable that Lott now professes to be a fashion designer with her regular capsule collections for Lipsy. Her style drops include numerous 'reinventing the wheel' moments, such as the shift dress available in both black and white (oh Pixie, you spoil us with your innovation), floral dresses, playsuits and more floppy hats than you can shake a stick at. Similar pieces can be found at every single fashion outlet on the planet, for considerably less cash.

[Image from Fashion Fame, depicting Katy Perry's Purr promo]. The prerequisite for becoming a 21st century female celeb is to release your own perfume. It doesn't matter if you have any olfactory interests, or if you even know what olfactory means, because you will suddenly wake up one day dreaming of fragrance topnotes and a burning desire to make everyone smell your talent. In recent months we've been encouraged to buy into Jennifer Aniston (l'eau du permanently single female), Rihanna (l'eau du skimpy outfits and S&M videos) and Katy Perry (l'eau du awkward high-profile marriage). Perry perhaps tops the list for me, as she promoted her scent whilst dressed in a catsuit with a giant ball of twine. Catnip not included.

My plea to celebrities who want to cash in on their fifteen minutes of fame with a clothing or perfume range? GET BACK TO YOUR DAY JOB. Ditto Justin Bieber and his nail varnish for tweens, which is undeniably odd and desperate. Other viable alternatives for less random self-promotion are the ghost-written autobiography and the calendar; both of these are accepted as the norm and are much easier to stomach as a moneyspinner, because they make sense and they involve little effort. I require a celebrity to dress me about as much as I need a banker doing my hair, or a laywer cooking my dinner. Let's hope that we're not soon to be graced with L'eau du Ryan Giggs or the clothing range from Chipmunk. Fingers most definitely crossed.

N.B. Thanks to Holly Lowe for alerting me to the Geri Halliwell collection.

Janelle Monae's Fashionable Set at Glasto

The most stylish backing singers I have ever seen - rocking the black and white humbug-esque stripes and very artistic looking hats.

The backing duo match Janelle's monochromatic colourscheme, but she goes for androgynous tailoring and flat brogues, with her trademark quiff.

She even adds a cape, for that extra bit of dramatic flair. It features an embroidered collar.

The look is sharp, but does not detract from the music.

[Images taken as stills from BBC footage].

I am enthralled by the style of Janelle Monae; when she first arrived on the scene, I was worried that her clothing choices felt a little too structured and planned, but the footage from her Glastonbury set proves that she can dance, sing and relax without seeming uncomfortable in a crisp white shirt and tie. She doesn't let the clothes wear her - she wears them. Here is an artist unafraid of making her supporting musicians appear just as fashionable as she is, even though their outfits might just be capable of upstaging hers. Top marks, Miss Monae.

Musical Muse

(Images via Standart News and Last FM).

For those of you who didn't see the amazing Mark Knopfler program on BBC Four last night, you're in for a treat. Not only is this man amazing at writing lyrics and creating the most incredible guitar riffs and solos, but he is also known for his distinctive look in the 1980s. I knew he was famous for those little headbands, but I'd never quite appreciated the whole ensemble until I was watching the archive footage on this documentary; it's not only practical (who wants hair in your face when you're boiling on stage?) but it's about ignoring whatever anyone else may be wearing and doing your own thing. There are no logos or considerations for looking cool (besides maybe choosing something in a nice colour or a crazy pattern), because comfort and purpose have overtaken them. With sportswear looming large on the catwalk, the more functional terry towelling headband may yet make a comeback, but I hope this doesn't leave us with a lasting trend. The whole thing about Knopfler is that you can try and imitate what he does, but you'll never do it quite as good as him. I wish more men had the guts to dress however they want, without being restricted to obvious choices or whatever is in the shop window. It's time to be inventive.