Showing posts with label London. Show all posts
Showing posts with label London. Show all posts

Sunday, 16 February 2014

LFW A/W14: House of Holland and Paul Smith Dressing Women for Women

Some people say you should dress for yourself; others say you should dress for the job you want, or for a man. However, the option of dressing for other women is also a potent one, and it's been taken to heart by two polar opposite designers at London Fashion Week - Henry Holland, the man behind House of Holland, and Paul Smith

HOH iridescent AW14 lime trousers
 [Images via Style.com]. HOH brings the iridescence to the yard.

Paul Smith AW14 pyjamas
Paul Smith's laid-back eveningwear as daywear: the student's dream. Note the damask trousers, too.

Whilst the collections are hardly identical, with HOH offering a heady mix of slogans, sequins and fur whilst Paul Smith showed off dark prints and upper-class pyjama party chic, I did find some similar takeaways from them. Both took advantage of damask prints to great effect and both used shiny finishes to give their catwalk looks that extra bit of polish, but ultimately it felt that both were dressing women without the need to gain a man's seal of approval. 

House of Holland aw14 damask
 Henry Holland can do cocktail hour, and even an LBD. 

Floral and paisley prints clashing with stripes
You can never have too many prints, Mr. Smith.

These were not great looks for first dates with a man, meeting his parents or going to a job interview (even Smith's brilliantly louche suits wouldn't have gone down well with a male-led HR department) and they weren't aimed at catching a man's eye across the bar. These were pure fashion looks, aimed at the sisterhood and, in the case of Smith, borrowing from the boys in order to subvert masculinity. 

Sequinned lipstick motif and orange tutu HOH
 Layer it up as you like over at HOH.

Suits for women by Paul Smith
The boys would never look this good in masculine tailoring.

Meanwhile, HOH's lipstick and cocktail decor, set beside gauzy layers over ripped jeans, was certainly bold and brassy, but probably not likely to get many seals of approval were it donned by the ladies of Take Me Out. Instead, I felt it was about celebrating girliness and not giving a toss about what men want to see you in.

It's really liberating to see British designers bringing such a carefree attitude to dressing and not to prescribe women yet more body-con dresses or man-pleasing basics. We love clashing patterns, playing with textures and wearing something daring, so keep up the good work. Not all of us are dressing to please the men in our lives, and we don't intend to start any time soon.

Sunday, 9 February 2014

The Stylist's Rail: Bargain Hunting and Cocktail Sipping Galore

A shiny new fashion event hit the Hoxton Hotel in East London this weekend; The Stylist's Rail was a vintage-meets-new-designers shopping experience, complete with cocktails and goodie bags for the crowds of attendees. I went along to sip and shop (sometimes simultaneously) and report back for you.


Vintage stall with red retro hat
 Guests were greeted by quirky displays set against rails of pre-loved or brand new clothing and accessories.

Quirky travel themed passport covers and watches
 I couldn't resist snapping these passport covers by Elsie & Fred, made by customising brightly coloured pieces of leather. In fact, I ended up buying the top one.

Multicoloured scarf worn multiple ways
 A trader showed off her amazingly versatile silk scarves, made in batches of 180.

There was a real mixture of styles available, meaning that you were in no danger of leaving the event empty-handed. From rock chick fringed black leathers to 60s PVC and suede skirts, there was something to appeal to even the pickiest vintage shopper, whilst the new brands on show offered really interesting accessories and outfits, including delicate gold bespoke jewellery and grungy sheer dresses.

Close-up vintage knitwear
 These vintage knitwear pieces caught my roving eye.

Bloom cocktail glasses at the Hoxton Hotel
 Cocktails were kindly provided by Bloom.

Fashion blogger at The Stylists' Rail
 As you can see, we had rather generous glasses. Chin chin!

The cocktail element of the event was a real bonus. Whilst I'm not normally a fan of gin, I can definitely recommend a G&T made with Bloom, a dry London variety, and served with a strawberry. However, juggling shopping purchases and a glass became something of a balancing act for most of us!

Hoxton DJ in hotel
 There was even a DJ to get the party started.

Stylish Gin and Tonic at the Hoxton
 My +1 was one of my best friends, Katherine, who enjoyed her G&T as well.

Vintage shoes through the ages
 This retro shoe line-up shows just how diverse the stock was at the vintage stalls.

 One of the key considerations when buying vintage at events like The Stylist's Rail is to really go through the rails with a fine tooth comb, so you don't miss anything. We found it helped to do a circuit of all the stalls a few times, just to make sure we saw everything available, and we looked out for eye-catching patterns and textures.

Gold jewellery including clip-on earrings
 Jewellery on sale was affordable, blinged up and trendy.

White brogue sneakers
 Some of the pricier pieces were worth splashing out on. I would definitely have taken the plunge and bought these unusual brogue-style trainers (£68) if they'd been in my size.

D&G twill coat in jade green and yellow
 Incredibly, this Dolce & Gabbana coat was only £235.

 When checking out designer bargains, it's worth remembering that these items are going to generally be of better quality than your average high street vintage pick, so you won't really be able to haggle as much, because the price will be reflecting the brand name. Also, there will probably be someone willing to give the stallholder the offer they're looking for, so if you really want it then just go ahead and make that designer piece yours.

Denim twill handbag by Prada
 A Prada denim twill handbag hung from the rails.

Floral bomber jackets in bright colours
 These colourful bomber jackets were a photo opportunity waiting to happen.

Sequin, PVC and gauze pieces on sale at The Stylists' Rail
If you wanted something more futuristic and less vintage, this stallholder was happy to oblige.

Having seen the success of this event, I'm sure The Stylist's Rail will be delivering more fashion injections to the people of East London, and I'm looking forward to a similarly eclectic mix of brands and retro bargains.

Monday, 16 December 2013

Photo Essay: Liberty's Christmas Windows for 2013

With Selfridges out the way, it's time to focus on Liberty, another London department store with a rich history. Right now, Liberty is also the centre of attention thanks to a behind-the-scenes Channel 4 documentary, the final part of which will be broadcast tonight, so there's no better time to look at the windows of the famous mock Tudor building with its signature purple bags, that same purple of the lining of a bar of Cadbury's chocolate. Tuck into the company's minimalist visual merchandising vision for Christmas 2013...

Christmas star shaped arrangements at Liberty department store
 In previous years, these windows have featured a psychedelic frog and glamorous tableaux of mannequins, but 2013 called for simplicity, a smattering of sequins and starbursts.

Wooden mask, maps and bag on display in Liberty window
 Each star contained products based on a particular theme or customer - this one definitely covered travel, with a distinctive wooden sculpture and some beautifully covered maps.

Minimalist window display in London
 More travel, anyone? The phrenology head sat alongside a globe and a Moroccan lantern.

Festive window displays Xmas 2013 in Liberty
 A little Statue of Liberty snowglobe or paperweight added a pun on the shop's name.

Globe, ship in a bottle and toiletries in Christmas 2013 display
 Fancy setting sail with these gifts?

Flamingo in London department store
 A flamingo ticked the kitsch box.

Luxury designer brands in festive store window
 A solitary mannequin in this window showed just how uncluttered the displays were in comparison with previous years, when it was hard to see everything crammed in.

Black Rockstud pump by Valentino with red trousers
 Rockstud pumps by Valentino got my attention.

A taste of the seasonal windows at Liberty 2013
Fur trimmed boots were placed with stylish homeware pieces.

Purple Liberty boxes on mannequins as hats
 I couldn't resist a peek inside, either. These mannequins and their present hats stopped me in my tracks.

Matilda-inspired display overlooking scarf hall
One of the building's rare open spaces, overlooking the scarf hall, was dedicated to the West End musical, Matilda, complete with letter panels and a paint-splattered satchel.

Considering Liberty's Christmas shop alone attracts 250,000 visitors every year, it's fair to say that the visual merchandising on the outside plays an important part in drawing potential customers through the doors. 

Obviously going minimalist can be a risk for a place so readily associated with opulence and floors piled with goods, but I think it will help Liberty to stand out from the crowd. I would have liked to see a bit more colour in the windows, but otherwise the content is still going to grab people as they walk past. 

Do you think going minimalist at Christmas is a good idea for the store, or would you have preferred something crazier? Tweet me - @misspallen - or leave a comment below.

Tuesday, 3 December 2013

Photo Essay: Selfridges' Christmas Windows for 2013

It's that time of year again - and I swear I only just stopped playing Christmas music from 2012. Of course, Harrods has been greeting festive shoppers since August, when its seasonal department typically opens, but most of us have held out slightly longer to get our fix of tinsel and snow spray.

Whilst the Christmas window displays have been up for a little while now in London, it was only yesterday that I caught a glimpse of them. As usual, I've focused on Selfridges and Liberty, two of the biggest power players, but first it's the turn of Selfridges with a really magical example of visual merchandising.

Oversized Flowerbomb bottle in Selfridges Xmas 2013
 Say it with Viktor & Rolf's Flowerbomb - my favourite perfume got the spotlight it deserved.
The Dutch design duo created a story to set off the playful children's winter wonderland theme of the decorations.

Tiny figures around a bottle in the Christmas windows of Selfridges
 There was an element of Gulliver's Travels here, as the tiny elf figures clustered around the perfume bottle.

Golden kitty slipper shoe by Charlotte Olympia
 A larger-than-life Charlotte Olympia cat loafer with moving ears was another centrepiece.

Kenzo jumpers parachuted into Oxford Street
 Primary colours were the focus here - royal blue Kenzo jumpers suspended from pillarbox red and signature Selfridges yellow parachutes and surrounded by yellow planes.

Giant camera in Selfridges visual merchandising for Christmas 20133
 A nice promo for Canon and a nod to the many other snappers (besides me) taking photos of the windows.

Miniature photography enthusiasts in snow scene
 Even these figurines couldn't wait to get in on the act.

Grey Goose vodka window display in London
 Something of a Grey Goose playground for these (responsible, 18+) models.

Giant snowshaker for Selfridges windows Christmas 2013
A giant snowglobe would complete the look, you say? Oh wait, they've got that one covered...

Huge tub of Play-Doh in wintery scene
The avalanche of Play-Doh was presented as fun rather than life-threatening for the figures in this miniature world.

Artfully arranged boxers in the Christmas windows at Selfridges
Who knew boxers could be so artfully arranged? Candy-stripe ladders were the final touch.

Saint Laurent gold bag in windows of London department store
This took the biscuit on the 'oversize clutch' front - no wonder a child was mesmerised by YSL's (or Saint Laurent's) piece de resistance, complete with Santa clinging onto the gold tassel beneath the logo

Red and black hi-top trainer invades Christmas display
Ding Dong Merrily on Hi-Tops.

Fornasetti candle in festive window of Selfridges
Fornasetti brought a touch of theatrical glamour with a model of its candle (normally more of a manageable size, but still £99). The train set running past was a nice touch.

Child's toy blocks spelling out Kids Company
Some of the side windows focus on the charity that Selfridges has teamed up with this year, the brilliant Kids Company. You can help them support disadvantaged children by texting KIDSHELP to 70700, which will cost just £5; the whole of that donation goes straight to Kids Company and funds their important work.

So, was this visual merchandising enough to draw the punters? I'd say so, judging by the crowds gathered to look at the windows but also to peek inside the store and get a taste of the magic for themselves, from the Christmas Shop and its helpful Elfridges concierges, to the beauty counters downstairs.

I think the concept of a playful winter wonderland is simple but effective, capturing the childhood nostalgia that Christmas inspires year after year. After all, it is the best time to be a big kid.

Thursday, 19 September 2013

London's on Fire for S/S14: Meadham Kirchhoff, Giles and Vivienne Westwood Red Label

The catwalk was set ablaze this season by three great designers in London, each with their own slightly different fan-base. Meadham Kirchhoff is the brainchild of two talented young upstarts with a suitably edgy following, Giles has his endless celebrity endorsements and  mainstream fans from his brilliant New Look diffusion line, and Vivienne Westwood's Red Label boasting its incredible price tags and customer elite sitting not-quite-comfortably alongside her protestations that we all cut down on the number of clothes we buy. Ahem.

Controversial comments aside, these three shows had a lot in common; they all showed models looking empowered and fiery, whether channeling the Lolita look or going for something significantly more dishevelled. 

 L-R: Meadham Kirchhoff, Giles and Vivienne Westwood Red Label showed expressive styles with fiery traits - lace bras, bat-like headpieces and fierce make-up coordinated with a masterclass in layering that shouldn't work but somehow totally does. [All images via Style.com].

Both Meadham Kirchhoff and Giles chose to braid the hair of their models, whilst at Westwood it was all left to hang out in glorious waves, as though just undone from its plaits. The colours may not have been glowing at all times, in fact they could be pretty muted occasionally, but the prints and draping created lashings of drama to help things along.

 The boys  at Meadham Kirchhoff brought us a gold-tinged vision of summer with the prospect of raiding the dressing-up box for those accessories. 

Red satin princess-style gloves: check. Edwardian jacket fresh out of Downton: check. Gold jacket from that 80s fancy dress night: check. Finish it all off with strappy gold shoes and a piercingly bright orange wig and you're good to go.

This is what I call Lolita meets Little House on the Prairie (with a touch of Wednesday Addams). The Meadham Kirchhoff woman isn't afraid to wear her inner child on her sleeve, but that doesn't mean you should mess with her. She mixes decades and patterns better than you, and she can also drink you under the table.

 After reappropriating famous paintings and working with beautifully burned fabrics to set the mood of a smouldering country pile, Giles Deacon has finally created his own relics using these moody photographic prints by Glen Luchford.

There's a brilliant behind-the-scenes studio piece on Giles fresh on the Grazia website right now, explaining loads more about the creative process behind this collection. Amazingly, Giles spotted the photos being posted on Instagram by Luchford, many of them previously unpublished, and he was able to use them in the designs. There's an interesting cross-over with Prada here, as some of the pieces in the collection use prints from Glen's test shots for a Prada campaign back in 1997. 

What I love about the shapes of this part of the collection is that they flatter most figures and don't seek to exploit the women wearing the pieces. There's that all-important draping and forgiving volume that allows you to breathe underneath, rather than be constrained.

Westwood's combination of Pre-Raphaelite hair and distressed layers of clothing with slight Victorian and Edwardian nods (braces, muted florals, sharp masculine tailoring) was totally absorbing.

Being a Vivienne Westwood show, there were always going to be elements of punk spirit tied into all of this extravagance; the Climate Revolution t-shirts and the childish doodling of the make-up certainly added to that, along with the vertiginous multi-strap heels, but having Lily Cole steal the show in a beautifully simplistic and feminine beige dress made sure that this collection would be remembered for its balance of anger with feminine wiles. Trust Westwood to make beige look empassioned instead of bland. 

These three designers definitely lit up the catwalk for me, and they made a strong impact. I'll be watching out for the high street's interpretation of these looks.
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