Thom Browne A/W13: Alice in Wonderland, set in the 80s

I've had my eye on Thom Browne's quirky designs for a while now, but this collection made me stop in my tracks. It's as if he made up a recipe with equal ratios of Lewis Carroll, Gwen Stefani, Russian dolls, 1980s power dressing and an angry Miss Havisham, then added an extra sprinkling of rose petals for good measure. My favourite parts of the concoction, including one of the best girl-with-attitude pouts yet:

 [All images via Style.com, except where credited]

Excess All Areas

Browne's love of full volume design is always at the forefront of what he does - there's rarely any subtlety involved. That means an entire outfit in red, a pintuck-upon-pintuck dress with a corseted waist or a rose-strewn tulle gown with co-ordinating headpiece.

The typical Browne girl, if there is such a thing and she can be pinned down to a mere stereotype, is someone who refuses to be a wallflower. She probably loves cupcakes and Tim Burton films and wanted to be a horse when she grew up.

 Roses Are Red

It's all about the 1980s bouffant, even down to the frizz. Backcombed to seemingly impossible heights, it then has corsages pinned carefully into place, teamed with groomed brows, a pinch of blusher and a geisha-style lip in vibrant red. The overall effect is that of a Russian doll who's been listening to power ballads and works in an office. Makes perfect sense to me...

 The Lady is a Vamp

These shoulders are markedly different from the Henry VIII shoulders rocked at Burberry last season; they're more elegant and often angular rather than solidly inflated in appearance. If you've seen Browne's work before, you'll know he loves to exaggerate the silhouette like this, with American footballer shapes for men. 

These images also remind me of the micro-trend on street photography websites, for fashion editors and celebs to wear their jackets balanced on their shoulders, rather than putting their arms through the sleeves - the shapes here look very similar. Perhaps this is a case of the street influencing the catwalk?

 The Gathering 

Hitch up, look sharp, as Dizzy Rascal didn't quite ever say. Gathered layers of fabric were heavily embellished or accessorised with everything from fur trims (though I hope they're not real) to Edwardian ruffles. The nipped in waist is a great antidote to the effect of wide skirts and fussy sleeves.

 A Pout To Rival McKyla Maroney's Meme

This is a look that says, "I don't care if you hate what I'm wearing, because I bloody love it." Topped off by power brows, obvs. 

Sorry, McKayla.

[Image via Memecrunch.com]

Squaring Up

Again, these are not Henry VIII or American footballer shoulders, but they're something else. In this case, more of a masculine shape, but made to seem all the more square and grid-like thanks to the choice of geometric tweed fabrics. There's also a sort of Alan Titchmarsh twist (yes, really - I haven't gone totally mad, but it is a tenuous link) in that the square patterns work really well with the climbing roses. Sort of like a trellis - see? Just me? Oh well. Maybe I've spent too long analysing this one. 

Still, Thom Browne's Autumn/Winter outlook is rosy as far as I'm concerned. Just get me some 80s tunes, a can of hairspray and some roses and I'll be desperately recreating the look in no time, though maybe not without the set designer's additions of men tied to hospital beds.

Theyskens' Theory S/S13: Boy Meets World

 Grunge for Spring/Summer? Hell yeah.

[All images via Style.com].

I am a little bit in love with Olivier Theyskens, even though he used to make demi-couture gowns that cost more than my combined university fees. There's something about his clothing that puts up two fingers to the doubters and makes you feel powerful (I assume - it's not like I have a secret stash of Theyskens' Theory in my room, though it would be a nice thought). Unlike the try-hard grunge look that seems distinctly pre-fabricated, this is genuine insouciance and you can tell that he's enjoyed crafting each piece, regardless of its reception. 

The top and trousers in the centre remind me mostly of grass stains, as if the wearer had spent long enough rolling down hills and scuffing her clothes to inadvertently create a look. Meanwhile the sheath dress on the right could have been sewn from a satin nightdress with a black voile thrown over the top in a last-ditch attempt to look presentable after a night on the tiles. Turning to the evening gown on the left, you can see it's made for putting your hands on your hips and into those pockets - not for being a wallflower.

 For those times when you feel a little bit different and don't want to chuck on jeans.

There was definitely an element of second glances in this collection, most notably in the ever-so-sheer demure-looking dress that flashes bright white underwear beneath this season's peplum. Similarly, but with less potential to offend the elderly, the blue house coat in the centre seems quite girly with its A-line shape, yet a closer look reveals that it's actually more like an oilskin men's jacket, but given an unusual cut, then thrown over a leather dress to give a mash-up of textures. Lastly, the beautifully sculptural maxi dress on the right is toughened up by embellishment and that stern pout from the model - you get the feeling she might have a knuckleduster on.

 Don't just go for the 'boyfriend' look as a phase - take that old jumper or suit jacket and wear it to death.

Boyish went for more of a grandad edge with chunky charcoal jumpers, elegantly cut jackets that verged on the masculine, and some deep v-necks that revealed gaping chests rather than ample cleavage. Those shiny black trousers on the left are perhaps a hard act to follow on the high street, with potential echoes of MC Hammer, but you can bet that fashion industry insiders will be clamouring to be shot in them by the likes of Scott Schuman and Tommy Ton.

As a parting note, everything gets bleached as the grunge kids draw back the curtains.

I wanted to end with more of the pure white Theyskens' Theory pieces, as they're so dazzling and might initially seem to go against the grungy aesthetic of the rest. Again, on a double take they seem a little less innocent. That white suit with those serious black boots gives a hint of A Clockwork Orange, whilst the baggy coat and silvery hair makes an otherwise simple, if short, shift dress seem like the choice of a post-gig rock star. The soft thigh-skimming jacket on the right is also fairly indecently short, but there's barely a hint of anything underneath (look away, middle America!). 

I can't get enough of this collection; there's so much fun behind the separates and they'd all add something to your wardrobe. Olivier Theyskens is a constant source of inspiration for me and I get the feeling he'll be lining the pockets of a few of our high street stores when they get creating copycat designs. Not naming any names, but you might want to head to Zara, Mango and COS to try and replicate the great man on a more budget-friendly scale...

Met Ball 2012: Impossible Conversations, Fairytale Dresses

 [Getty Images].

 Burgundy on Ice

Kate Bosworth in Prada, Caroline Sieber in Christopher Kane, Mia Wasikowska in Prada, Camille Belle in Ralph Lauren.

The Metropolitan Museum, a giant in the cultural world, is also home to a yearly ball which honours the cream of the crop in the fashion industry. It's always a myriad of colours, shapes and risks, with everyone's eyes on the celebrities and their stylists. 2012 has seen Miuccia Prada and Elsa Schiaparelli's combined retrospective setting the evening's theme, so plenty of celebs turned up in a nice bit of Prada. First up on my radar: the juxtaposition of burgundy lips and fabric with icy whites and blues, embellished with crystals, stones and sequins. This was glamour with a vintage edge, with an unusually brave lead by Kate Bosworth who was sporting a dress dyed in the same two-tone colours as my hair was during Spring 2011 (thank you, Schwarzkopf).

 Structured, Not Stirred

Emma Roberts in Escada, Elizabeth Banks in Mary Katrantzou, January Jones in Atelier Versace.

The pesky peplum has been very much on everyone's lips when it comes to this season's fashion, but it's been well and truly propelled into your agenda for the next six months with these efforts of varying hip-accentuated degrees. Expect to see high street stores adorning your curves with boxy pleated sections for quite some time, either with a belt or a very well-defined bust. Perhaps not one for the apple shapes amongst us, but this is a trend that just won't die. If you want a quirkier take on the look then channel Elizabeth Banks in Mary Katrantzou's eye-popping graphic print.

 Fairytale of New York

Dakota Fanning in Louis Vuitton, Rooney Mara in Givenchy by Ricardo Tisci, Amy Adams in Giambattista Valli, Mary-Kate Olsen in The Row.

Yep, thanks to all of those 'heroes and villains' cinematic epics at the moment (double points if they reference Snow White), fashion is firmly focused on all things traditionally 'pure' or 'deadly'. Go really literal with an injection of frothy lilac a la Dakota Fanning, or seductive satin from Mary-Kate Olsen. Take your cues from the film heroines of days gone by and enter rooms with a dramatic sweep, especially if you're feeling evil (add your own cackle as you see fit).

 Strike a Structural Pose

Jessica Stam in Christian Dior Haute Couture, Solange Knowles in Rachel Roy.

I'd say that this is the definitive pose, judging by how expertly both Jessica and Solange can do the dropped hip and one leg effect. Not only does it seemingly lengthen your pins, but it emphasises your arms and the strong architectural folds around your waist, which most definitely aren't signs of a muffin top (but would quite nicely conceal one - good tip, ladies). Props to Solange for leaving her amazing hair au naturel and not bowing to the pressure of the GHD straightening brigade.

 Sparkling Things

Dree Hemingway in Topshop, Liya Kebede, Carey Mulligan in custom-made Prada.

Causing something of a field day for any magpies in the area, these three women added some sparkle to the evening with their dresses. I love that Dree plumped for Topshop (as did Jaime King), which admittedly looks far more comfortable than Carey's custom-made Prada affair. Having said that, I am incredibly jealous of the latter's quiff.

Bargain Bin

Alexa Chung in Marc Jacobs, Karen Elson in Marc Jacobs, Rosario Dawson in Calvin Klein.

Lastly, three who didn't quite work for me. I know that Alexa is seen as the high priestess of fashion in many circles, but I find a lot of her outfits can be too formulaic at times. It's great to see her stepping out of her comfort zone here and trying a shirt under a dress, but the whole two-tone style of the Marc Jacobs number doesn't quite work on any level. Surprisingly I picked out another Jacobs disappointment on Karen Elson, where the shape and the finish left me unmistakably reminded of the bargain bins at Jane Norman that some chavvy friends tried to drag me into as a teenager. It's really disappointing that Marc Jacobs has performed so uncharacteristically on such an important night. As for the third candidate, poor Rosario Dawson is left with one half of a 1990s Posh and Becks leather outfit, possibly reclaimed from Furniture Village remnants, only her Becks seems to have run away with embarrassment. Or he may be hiding under her big panelled leather skirt. Either way, it's not looking bright for 2013 if these three have anything to do with the fashion rules.

As you can probably tell, I devoured the Met Ball photos like a child at Christmas. I think it was a particularly interesting year for celebrities trying something new (albeit at the behest of their stylists), and it was refreshing to see fewer sensible LBDs or prom dresses and more of the quirky or artistically minded pieces that make fashion intriguing. If you get the chance to visit the Met and check out the Prada and Schiaparelli exhibition, I'm sure you'll be similarly captivated.

Preview Post: The 90s, with Jeremy Scott and Ashish

 [Images via Style.com and presented by me]. 

Jeremy Scott's show was a myriad of pop culture references from the 90s onwards.

Ashish's collection was also 90s-heavy, with the smiley face, yin and yang and many modern hippie references that channelled a Brit on a 'Gap Yah' style adventure.

This week I've been writing for This Affected Youth on the influence of the 1990s on both Ashish and Jeremy Scott's collections for A/W 2012. Although they took them in different directions, there were many shared symbols and themes in their designs, and I couldn't help but compare the two. 

To see the full post, please click here for This Affected Youth does Fashion Week.