The Cambridge Satchel Company's Brand Evolution: S/S14 Looks Bright

Today I received some of the shiny new images from the S/S14 collection by the Cambridge Satchel Company, which has gone from strength to strength since its formation around a kitchen table back in 2008. This latest range shows just how determined the brand is to achieve longevity and not just be part of a short-term satchel trend. No wonder it's just had a cash injection of over £12 million from Index Ventures. Peach Pink and Bellflower Blue are going to be it-colours for the season, mark my words.

 [Images via Cambridge Satchel Company S/S14 launch and Google+ profile].

These longer strap options won't hang around for long this season.

 I would snap up this navy clutch in an instant.

Candy clutches (and traditional black) are sure to be successful.

Whilst I'm yet to get my hands on one of these bags, I can definitely see the appeal of their latest evolution into clutches, two-tone variants and long shoulder strap numbers. The key to keeping the brand fresh is to offer something desirable and different, as well as the same reliable models that the public knows them for. 

 Two tone works well in both of these colour ways.

Even small adjustments, such as panels made from leopard print or tartan fabric, Vivienne Westwood designed prints or iconic Harris Tweed, show that there is more than one ideal CSC customer and they will all be catered for. I've seen the Accessories Editor of Elle carrying a neon number at London Fashion Week, but I've also seen grandmas, students and mums buying into the brand as well. 

 There's nothing like a bit of punk spirit from a British brand.

Admittedly the designers could have easily become stuck in a rut of continually reinventing the wheel and trying not to shake up tradition, knowing how well the standard styles were selling, but instead they've tried new innovations and colour combinations regularly. Fluoro, double colour and metallic options have all proved popular, suggesting there's no let-up in satchel fever, and the company's products are stocked in over 100 countries. 

 These fluoro music bags would certainly brighten up a dull music lesson...

Taking a look at the latest styles, I have a feeling that Bellflower Blue is going to look great with S/S14 outfits, whilst the patent croc print clutches are real investment pieces for smarter occasions. The Cambridge Satchel Company has come a long way from its humble kitchen table beginnings, and I'll be eagerly anticipating its next move.

Wool Week 2012: I Wasn't Born, I Was Knitted

The knitwear genius of Sister by Sibling at London Fashion Week, working a toile print (S/S13).

You may not be aware of the dearth of 'national/international [insert common theme, such as toilet paper, embarrassing medical condition or random emotion] week' publicity drives that take place throughout the year, but this time around there's a pretty worthy one that should be on your agenda: Wool Week. It's a global event that puts this 'most versatile and natural fibre' (thank you, official website) in the spotlight. 

As I've grown up surrounded by knitting - no, not in a strange wooly commune, but in the midst of my mother's favourite habit and a much-loved Jemima Puddleduck pullover from my childhood - it's become second nature to me to seek out the perfect pattern. I will lust over knitted designer delights or pure wool coats from COS and try to save up my pennies. Sadly I haven't inherited the family knitting gene and I cannot work out how to 'purl one' or 'cast off', let alone 'cast on', but I have a deep-seated envy for those who take to it naturally and can churn out a jumper or two in the space of watching one series of Downton Abbey.

To celebrate Wool Week 2012 and to cope with my inability to join a knitting club, here are three reasons to love wool even more:

1. You can be any age and get away with wearing it; there's no such thing as 'slutty wool' (good grief. Well, maybe a woolen mankini would raise a few eyebrows, but thankfully I haven't spotted one yet) and you can't really get called 'mutton dressed as lamb' (yup, sheep jokes, wool, enough said) for putting on a nice jumper. Anyone from babies to geriatrics can make it look good.

2. Back in the days of university, I learned that woolen cloaks were something of a staple item during the Renaissance and they were something to be feared as well as utilised. You could turn your cloak into a fairly respectable tent or rain shield if you needed to, and it was great for keeping out the cold, but also you could hide behind it and disguise your appearance. A group of people wearing cloaks and approaching you commanded the same level of fear as a bunch of teenagers in hoodies does today.

3. There have been some unforgettable fashion looks involving wool, and I'm sure there will be many more to come. Think of Vivienne Westwood's tartan, Chanel Tweed jackets, Raf Simons' powder pink elegant coats for his final collection at Jil Sander... How about Mark Fast's intricate woven dresses, or Markus Lupfer's sequinned intarsia jumpers? They're all made with wool. 

 Topshop gets in on the act with this design by Henrietta Jerram. Image via the Campaign for Wool. 

So, fashion lovers, it's time to wear your heart on your sleeve and celebrate all things knitted.

Aquascutum: No Return of the Mac

 An early example of Aquascutum's classic trench coat in action.

[Image via the Financial Times].

The Autumn/Winter 2012 collection from Aquascutum.

This week we've lost one of Britain's most recognised heritage brands, as Aquascutum collapsed after a rich history of trading to the public since 1851. The company was known for its trench coat, which was actually worn in wartime trenches (yep, unsurprisingly that's how the name was developed), but soon the rich and famous were known for wrapping up in the same style, albeit with less mortal peril involved in a trip to the shops. 

After years of being known as a staple wardrobe choice but without the edge of new and contemporary fashion that major rival Burberry had, it's now been revealed that 115 people are to lose their jobs in the Corby factory which lovingly produced Aquascutum stock. The brand prided itself on being made in Britain, which is why it's particularly sad that its future looks so bleak, as it just emphasises why so many retailers end up outsourcing their production to a far-flung country in order to stay afloat. Whereas Aquascutum refused to fall in line with the trend, the cost of keeping everything authentically British will have made it an uphill struggle. In recent years we've also seen the resurgence of fellow UK brand Barbour, now the obvious outerwear choice for both the landed gentry and the average celebrity It-girl at a festival, but this success (or frightening ubiquity) hasn't spread to poor old Aquascutum, despite being run by Harold Tillman - a.k.a. the Chairman of the British Fashion Council,and later a head honcho of Jaeger, Belinda Earl. 

It's funny how the decline of the company also seems so typically British in its own way, as if it was a pensioner stoically refusing to change and adapt to modern life or to go into a self-promotional overdrive in order to survive. "Oh, I'm alright, don't worry about me, I'll muddle along," it would say as it secretly wondered how on earth it would get out of this mess, but being too proud and polite to ask for help. I do think that, given enough time and a group of enthusiasts, Aquascutum could have had its own gentle revival, without the unsubtle youth modelling a la Burberry, but with a campaign that did for the English chap what Tommy Hilfiger did for American preppy clans, or what Alexander McQueen did for wonderfully Scottish tartan. 

It is disappointing that Tillman and his team, followed by Belinda Earl of the Jaeger Group, could not rescue the company, but I can fully understand that it is tricky to devise a strategy that keeps such a traditional brand's bare values in sight without destroying them in order to create something new. Perhaps Aquascutum just didn't want a Madonna-style reinvention, complete with leotards and stupid buzzwords. But, putting pride aside, it is incredibly disappointing that we'll be unlikely to see this iconic name still afloat when trench warfare is poignantly remembered in 2014 to mark a century since the outbreak of WWI. It seems that this company will be staying firmly in the past.

Magazines: All Change at Company and How To Spend It

I'll happily admit that I'm a complete magazine junkie. Second only to my love of sweet things, magazines are a constant source of inspiration and wall art for me (my room is littered with the evidence). Because of this, I'm a little bit excited about two developments in the world of British fashion publishing for 2012...

Company Magazine Gets a Re-Design

About the Publication: Company is a popular title for young women with their finger on the pulse of fashion, beauty and current affairs. In recent years we've seen a major shift towards travel within its pages, particularly focusing on gap years, working abroad and the risks of taking drugs at festivals. There's also a focus on campaigns, such as those against sunbeds and promoting depression awareness, the latter of which I took part in. Its spin-off sister publication, Company High Street Edit, is basically the bible for shopping and customising, and it also looks at menswear trends too.

What I'd Like to See: carrying on from the popularity of High Street Edit, I'd like to see more attention on customising. American magazines like Nylon do this quite well, and I think Company could be the British equivalent.

Details: the re-design will be hitting newsagents from 17th January, with the first issue featuring BRIT School students.

How To Spend It Increases Frequency

About the Publication: How To Spend It is the glossy magazine from the Financial Times. It's aimed at affluent consumers or people who work in a strong business environment, and it covers everything from couture to luxury watches. I love its regular section called 'Silly Street', which features a gadget that is either a bit mad or very overpriced. Basically I use this magazine for ideas and to see the excellent fashion shoots. In 2012 we can expect to see 30 issues a year, a flashy new website, and an iPad app.

What I'd Like to See: a greater emphasis on fashion, with more fashion specials. Also the interiors issues, called Superior Interiors, could have some really stunning styling.

Details: expect to notice the increase in issues soon. The iPad app will get a massive social media push when it is ready to go. The website can be found at www.howtospendit.com.

All Things Blonde and Beautiful - the Slogan T-shirt

After a mid-bleaching ginger/yellow moment, I have finally achieved platinum blonde again. Last year this was a salon-based tranformation, but this time I created the look at home, with gaps of at least a week (if not two) between colour changes, to aid hair recovery. [Image my own].

This is on my wishlist for new items. It's cheeky as a slogan but also the actual colourscheme is really nice - I love the mustard yellow against the dark marl grey. There's a brilliant red seam running from both armpits, which will make blonde hair stand out that little bit more.
T-shirt, £14.99, River Island [Image taken from their website and enhanced by me].

It's time for a confidence-boost, and I've found the perfect solution with this t-shirt. Sometimes you need to go back to basics with dressing, and remember that not every outfit has to be a smart one. For those more relaxing days, a slogan tee strikes the perfect balance between fun and functional, plus it allows you a lot of flexibility regarding your bottom half. Of course you can go for jeans, but equally a plain midi-skirt or shorts would work here. The great thing about an inoffensive slogan such as this means that it can be worn for babysitting, spending time with relatives or meeting new people, without the risk of causing offence (put away your 'Barbie is a Slut' version for those occasions).

Trust me: I'm a blonde.

Ethical but Aesthetically Pleasing: the new Mel collection at Office

[Images via Office Shoes].

When you imagine Vegan footwear, these styles are perhaps not what you would have in mind. The traditional stereotype of ethical brands as being centred around hemp and the socks-and-sandals brigade needs to be quashed, as proven with the new designs from Mel by Melissa. Each pair of shoes is lovingly made from bubblegum-scented plastic (which has to be smelled to be believed) and is recyclable, but also takes on the shape of a staple footwear style, such as the peep-toe heel or the flip flop.

You may recognise the boots, seen above in grey and red, from the Melissa collaboration with Vivienne Westwood Anglomania, where this basic template was adorned with large gold buttons and available in classic shades of red, blue, taupe and black, sometimes with a smattering of glitter. Now the Mel boot has arrived, which uses a gold ribbon design to give ankle detail to the streamlined shape. At £38, this is not far off the RRP of premium brand wellies, but will keep your feet dry in a definitely more feminine way.

If you're not into boots then the brogue option might just sway you - they've been in our fashion lives for a few years now in leather, canvas or faux leather formats, but the plastic brogue with lace-up detail and authentic panelling (£28) is an innovative new option. A pair of these would look great with some bright ankle socks or simple patterned tights (think lace, floral or polka dot) for a modern and quirky take on androgynous footwear.

This is style with a conscience, and I'm certainly a fan. For more styles, see www.melshoes.com.

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