Fashion Blogger Photography in Shops - What are the Rules?

Yesterday I was up in London for some family time and managed to squeeze in a bit of shopping (well, ok, I deliberately scheduled some in). Was happily browsing through the rails of H&M in Oxford Circus and managed to find a totally amazing collection hidden downstairs in the main womenswear section. Of course, I automatically reached for my camera, as there was no way I was going to miss the opportunity to document this - the range was basically a mash-up of fetish and sportswear, which somehow worked brilliantly. I was lusting after most of the items and was merrily snapping away, when a slightly blunt shop assistant interjected with, "Excuse me, NO PHOTOS,". Naturally I stopped and apologised, but then I thought about the situation afterwards and couldn't work out why it was such a negative thing for a mainstream high street fashion brand not to have people talking about them on a grass-roots level. I didn't want to hassle the assistant by asking specifically why I couldn't take more photos (okay, she scared me), so I've worked through a few thoughts around her comment, and why I don't agree with the no photos policy.

1. Fear of Copyright Infringement - "What if that woman steals our designs?"

This is a valid question, really. Brands are always going to be afraid of copycats and people who will rip off their products at a cut rate - I get that. What I don't understand is why a massive fashion chain that can afford to sell at brilliant prices would ever think that a lowly average Joe could compete with them? How could I produce a top for £7.99 with such a quick turnaround and a certain standard of sewing? What's more, if I was a fashion design student, why would I want to reference a high street store and not a legendary designer or fashion house? It's also slightly futile for H&M to be worried about copies of their designs when they already base large amounts of their collections on Couture and Ready-to-Wear pieces from Fashion Weeks around the world. They do not pay the designers that they have imitated, or acknowledge the link between the original and the H&M version. How exactly could they challenge me morally, even if I was planning on churning out copies of their clothing?

2. The H&M Website Has Hardly Any Stock

One of the reasons why I was so desperate to get out my camera was that there is too much disparity between the range of clothing on offer in stores and online. The website always seems to have a pitifully small selection of items and it's very rare for me to find one that I liked in store and can share with my friends via the internet. Basically I want to have a record of the pieces I covet if I can't afford them, so that I can start saving now, or send an image to my friends asking for their opinions. If I am not allowed to take photos then I will just have to end up mumbling vaguely about 'that top with the peplum thing and the sort of weird sleeves'. If the brand took a leaf out of its sister company COS' book, it would constantly update the site with lookbook images, visual inspiration and examples of as many key styles as possible. It's really not that hard to give your customers what they want.

3. Social Sharing Benefits the Brand

If I did want to rave about a particular object from the collection then I don't see how that can be a negative thing. What's more, being a fashion blogger, I am essentially giving H&M free publicity by telling everyone to go and buy into their new line, without any inkling of corporate sponsorship (rest assured, if I was paid by a brand to publicise something, you'd know). H&M must get this kind of thing all the time, especially in the Oxford Circus store, as it's a stone's throw away from the main campus of the London College of Fashion, my alma mater. I find it hard to believe that they would consistently discourage bloggers or members of the public who love fashion from taking photos. It's not like I was messing around in a silly hat with a group of mates - I was genuinely excited about this collection and I wanted to spread the word. What's more, not all of the pieces were suitable for my body shape, so I never could have bought them, but I was still keen to show people how great they were.

4. If I'd Had a Sketchbook I'd Be a Bloody Nuisance

Let's say I didn't use my camera. Instead I produced my trusty sketchbook and pens and proceeded to set up camp in the middle of an aisle to draw a certain dress in detail. Arguably this would be more disruptive to the running of the store (blocking everyone else from getting to the stock) and it could be quite messy - let's say my artist's permanent marker pen falls onto a top or a pair of shoes. Product ruined. In this situation, a quick photo is surely the better option.

Basically I've felt a bit flat after yesterday's trip to H&M, but I do have some nice photos of the collection which I would like to share with you, unless another shop assistant would like to accost me. Stay tuned for the images, and let me know if you have any thoughts on the issue.

Magazines: All Change at Company and How To Spend It

I'll happily admit that I'm a complete magazine junkie. Second only to my love of sweet things, magazines are a constant source of inspiration and wall art for me (my room is littered with the evidence). Because of this, I'm a little bit excited about two developments in the world of British fashion publishing for 2012...

Company Magazine Gets a Re-Design

About the Publication: Company is a popular title for young women with their finger on the pulse of fashion, beauty and current affairs. In recent years we've seen a major shift towards travel within its pages, particularly focusing on gap years, working abroad and the risks of taking drugs at festivals. There's also a focus on campaigns, such as those against sunbeds and promoting depression awareness, the latter of which I took part in. Its spin-off sister publication, Company High Street Edit, is basically the bible for shopping and customising, and it also looks at menswear trends too.

What I'd Like to See: carrying on from the popularity of High Street Edit, I'd like to see more attention on customising. American magazines like Nylon do this quite well, and I think Company could be the British equivalent.

Details: the re-design will be hitting newsagents from 17th January, with the first issue featuring BRIT School students.

How To Spend It Increases Frequency

About the Publication: How To Spend It is the glossy magazine from the Financial Times. It's aimed at affluent consumers or people who work in a strong business environment, and it covers everything from couture to luxury watches. I love its regular section called 'Silly Street', which features a gadget that is either a bit mad or very overpriced. Basically I use this magazine for ideas and to see the excellent fashion shoots. In 2012 we can expect to see 30 issues a year, a flashy new website, and an iPad app.

What I'd Like to See: a greater emphasis on fashion, with more fashion specials. Also the interiors issues, called Superior Interiors, could have some really stunning styling.

Details: expect to notice the increase in issues soon. The iPad app will get a massive social media push when it is ready to go. The website can be found at www.howtospendit.com.

S/S 2012 Trends in Hair: Eccentric and Eclectic

 [Image via RUSH Hair].

Here are some of the most eyecatching hair ideas from the S/S 2012 catwalk that we can expect to be cropping up on celebrities and on the high street soon. First up is the grunge look at Belle Sauvage, styled by RUSH Hair, which I can see catching on with inner city hipsters (yeah, it won't work as well if you live in a rural village like I do). Basically the hair is almost woven and spun into these patterns, and it's worn with grunge style - edgy prints, lots of black and ample piercings.

[Image via Catwalking.com].

Thanks to the swathe of prominent brides in 2011 (I'm looking at you, Kate Middleton, Kate Moss and Lily Allen, and possibly even at Kim Kardashian for the 0.5 seconds you were married),  veils and headpieces were seen on quite a few catwalks. I'm not saying we're all going to be getting hitched or covering our faces, but things will get a lot more romantic. I'm talking flowers strewn in your hair, plaits, ribbons and flowing waves. This is not the moment to break out the straighteners.

[Image via Company.co.uk].

At Preen we got a taste of romanticism but with a younger vibe.  Pinned back sections of hair and cute side partings set the scene for rural charm, with lots of blusher and clean eyes. This look can work well at the office or on a date. You can freshen up with dry shampoo and sweep your parting into a similar style quite easily, with just a few kirbigrips and some hairspray. Just don't make it look too 'done'.

[Image via Head1st.net].

Louise Gray's off-the-wall designs were nicely complimented by these corkscrew curls. I've already told you to put down the straigheners this season, and here's more proof. If you do have naturally curly hair then why not show it off? It would certainly have saved these models time. I also like the flick of neon eyeliner- it's what I'd call 'organised madness'.

[Image via SuicideBlonde on Tumblr].

Another strong contender in this season's hair stakes is the Marcel Wave. Ok, so it's not one for going to work in, but it would be perfect for a big night out. As you can see from the image above, there's a certain knack to it, but once you get going then you can achieve this look all by yourself. The reason this will be big for S/S 2012 is that we're surrounded by period films and television. With The Great Gatsby currently being made (and photos from the set cropping up online all the time), the mood is 1920s. Added to this is the current film du jour, The Artist, which is a black-and-white silent movie. On telly you've got Downton Abbey, whose next series will be set in the 20s, and Boardwalk Empire. Added to this will be the clothing trends of the drop waist and beaded embellishments, and you've got a craze going.

[Image via Tumblr]. 

The model of the moment is Charlotte Free, who took to many of the S/S 2012 catwalk shows with her pink hair. I used to have my hair this colour and it was a really liberating thing to do. Not great for job interviews, but definitely fun. On the high street, expect to see lots of wash-in, wash-out dyes and streaks of candy stripe shades.

[Image via the V&A]. 

Julia Margaret Cameron's Circe is an enduring image, and many of her photographs are currently on display at the Victoria and Albert Museum's Photographs Gallery. This is basically a good example of how to combine the bridal chic I mentioned previously with something a little more carefree. Expect to see children with flowers and beaded headbands.

[Image via LOVE Magazine]. 

Lastly, one to perhaps not try at home, but it's a stunning visual nonetheless. Here's model Nyasha for LOVE Magazine, with this intense headpiece last Autumn. It's an example of how Victoriana is seeping into the mainstream at the moment, with taxidermy making waves in art and trinkets and charms being everywhere in accessory trends. I think 2012 will be the year that things get a little more Gaga and we all become bolder with our hair. Not this bold, but you get the idea!

Save the Model Sanctuary

Founded in 2008 by model Erin O'Connor, the Model Sanctuary is an initiative that appears during every London Fashion Week to provide support, stability and advice to those on the catwalk, who we often naively assume are extremely self-confident and happy. The thing is, their industry is sadly often too closely linked to the media's unattainable beauty ideals, which can be unhealthy and unsustainable - I'm talking diets of coffee and cigarettes, little sleep and a negative self-image. What the Model Sanctuary can offer is anything from yoga classes to psychological and nutritional therapy. It's all about improving the lives of people who actually don't earn mega-bucks and don't live an utterly glamorous life all the time - they just partake in it as part of their job, and they are often only teenagers. When they get rejected at castings they are still just as vulnerable as the rest of us, if not more so, because their body is their livelihood.

I think it's really important that the Model Sanctuary continues to do its good work, which is why I was disappointed to read that O'Connor is struggling to find a premises for the A/W 2012-13 Fashion Week this February as the normal location has already been rented out. It would be such a disappointment if the service had to be reduced or drastically altered to accomodate a smaller or less private space. Here's hoping that a suitable building can be found. 

For more on the Model Sanctuary, please visit www.erinsmodelsanctuary.com and see their accompanying Tumblr site. 

I Guess That's Why They Call It The Blues: COS Dress

[All images my own. Please ask before reproducing].

Apologies for the not-so-happy face. I was having one of those days where you try and smile and you end up looking like you have trapped wind, so I decided it was better to look vaguely serious instead. Anyway, I was a bit more excited than I appear here, because this is my new dress from COS which arrived on New Year's Eve. I didn't wear it out that night as I was going for the careless-night-of-freedom look rather than fashion-conscious-person-who-will-drink-responsibly-thanks. The reason I chose this dress was because it reminded me so much of Miu Miu's S/S12 collection, with the little collar and the intense print. I wore it with a studded black and silver belt from a charity shop.

As you can see, it's quite long, so there's a definite vintage feel. I love the print because it's so dark and messy, in contrast to the very prim and proper shape. I might have to take it up an inch or two, as I'm only 5"7 and I tend to look a bit on the small side with things that are cut on the calf, but this is definitely a purchase that I'll wear again and again for smart occasions. 

Dress, 50EUR in sale, COS online.

The A-Z Sale Edit: ASOS and Zara

[Image via ASOS].
ASOS Twisted Pencil Skirt in Tartan
Why I love this skirt: it's very Vivienne Westwood-esque, calling to mind her tartan bags and capes.
What it does for your figure: if you're looking to give yourself curves then this is the piece for you. The drapery accentuates your hips with semi-circular arcs and the bright yellow draws attention to your figure. Meanwhile your waist looks tiny and anyone conscious of thighs will enjoy the coverage that this knee-length skirt has.
Price: £31.50 (was £45.00)

[Image via ASOS].
Stylestalker Snake Leather-Look Bustier Dress
Why I love this dress: it gives a nod to the fetish trend with snakeskin and leatherette, but you're not stuck with a bodycon piece that is unforgiving. Instead it billows outwards.
What it does for your figure: if you're blessed with big boobs then this is the dress for you. Finally you don't have to hide them, and you're also not making them look ridiculous. Instead the corseted top holds you in and stops you getting that weird 'shelf' effect that can often happen (believe me, I spend my life trying to avoid it). If you're not so blessed in the abs department then any rounded stomachs will be nicely disguised by the floaty chiffon skirt.
Price: £37.50 (was £125)

[Image via Zara].
Metallic Trousers
Why I love these trousers: basically they're really shiny. You know how you sometimes get those magpie moments and you just need something sparkly to cheer you up? Well, these might work.
What they do for your figure: instead of hiding behind shapeless black harem pants (yeah, they're a winter staple, but you've got to shake things up sometimes), you might want to give these a go. The straight cut means that your figure is elongated, but don't expect to be a shrinking violet - you are going to be looked at, so make sure you feel confident - regardless of your shape - when you wear metallic trousers.
Price: £29.99 (were £39.99)

[Image via Zara].
Patchwork Clutch Bag
Why I love this bag: whether you actually own an iPad or you just love the wallets that have hit the shops to hold them, you could well be lusting after this baby. It's compact and sleek, with a mixture of different textures - suede, faux snakeskin and a soft backing.
What it does for your figure: not a great deal, as it's only a bag. Let's not pretend it can hide flaws or emphasise your best bits, unless they're your hands. On the plus side, it might make you feel more organised! I would prefer if it wasn't made from goatskin (checked the label and was slightly horrified), so it's not going to be on my purchasing list any time soon, but I do admire the design and that's why it's made my sale edit.
Price: £39.99 (was £79.99)

A Look Back at 2011: Fashion Moments and the Year in Blogging

It's been quite a year on the blog. Thanks to all who've been following my adventures over the past 12 months (and those who were there previously), as I've really enjoyed getting your feedback. I started the year as a postgraduate student at the London College of Fashion, which I must say I really do miss, and now I'm greeting 2012 providing content and destination advice to British travellers, whilst keeping an eye on travel trends. Here are some of my highlights of 2011:

• The maxi skirt was a slow burning trend with me, but I've now embraced it. At first I was reluctant to get into 'granny chic', as I'm normally a miniskirt kind of girl, but it's been refreshing to shake up my wardrobe a little.
  
• Trips away from the daily grind included a holiday to Boston, which was freezing but very stylish, and my usual jaunt to the Edinburgh Festival. I discovered a brilliant vintage shop in Edinburgh which may become one of my favourite places.
  
• I spent the year writing for various publications, including Pigeons and Peacocks Magazine, the current affairs website This Affected Youth and the art website Artface. Pigeons and Peacocks was my first print piece, which was very exciting, and involved being on the same page as the legendary Susie Bubble.
• Aside from writing, finishing my postgraduate course, working in retail and moving on to destination marketing, I spent much of the year interning for the ethical fashion brand Esther Porter. This was a valuable experience and I loved helping Esther to build up social media, potential stockists and customers. My interning stint culminated with London Fashion Week and a Parisian trade show, which were both amazing.
  
• This year I also met several idols of mine, which left me pretty speechless. Donna Wallace, Accessories Editor of Elle UK, was at Fashion Week (the woman has serious style credentials and is also really friendly), and I also spotted Brix Smith-Start with her pugs. Later in the year I met Sasha Wilkins of Liberty London Girl, who was a real inspiration. Who knows who I'll bump into in 2012?
• Shop-wise, I loved New Look, Republic and Topshop this year and was impressed by H&M's Conscious Collection and Gareth Pugh for MAC (the latter of which made an appearance in my Christmas stocking, thanks to my one and only sister).
• Designers to watch in 2011 included Rodarte (whose S/S11 collection thrilled, but whose SS12 did not look too promising), House of Holland (I even invested in Henry Holland's underwear collection at Selfridges) and Charlotte Olympia.
  
• My inspiration for A/W11-12 style came from the raciest trend of the year. That meant no Kate Middleton references (I know she's supposed to be fashionable, but the pearls and twinset look just isn't my thing) and certainly no conservative leanings (phew). Tis the season to be daring.
  

I hope you'll continue reading in 2012. Now I've also finished my guest blog stint for the fabulous Bitch Magazine, hopefully a more frequent blogging schedule will be resumed! I'll keep you updated on all my sartorial ramblings for the year.