Lakme Fashion Week: Aarti Vijay Gupta puts the art into Winter/Festive 2013

Fashion Month may not have begun yet for New York/London/Paris/Milan, but Lakme Fashion Week has already come round again - how time flies in the style calendar. Right now, the hottest Indian designers have just shown or are about to show their collections to the crowds, causing Bollywood's finest to flock to the side of the catwalk (or even to be part of the show). 

First up in this series of posts is a design talent who has the edge when it comes to prints; this season she's really showed her artistic knowledge.

 Aarti Vijay Gupta hits the right notes with her Winter/Festive designs.

 [Images via The Fashion Weekend.]

 I love the cut of this trouser suit.

Aarti Vijay Gupta has to be my favourite designer to come out of India. I've written about her many times previously on the blog and compared her eye for prints to that of Mary Katrantzou, and this season's offering was even more fun and fearless. She called it simply 'I Love Music' and combined linear drawings of trumpets, drums and pianos with classic music-themed paintings by Salvador Dali and Pablo Picasso (The Red Orchestra and The Old Guitarist, respectively). 

 Dali's surrealist painting sees a skeletal man playing another like a cello.

[Image via Wikipedia.org.]

 

 Picasso's Old Guitarist was part of his Blue Period.

[Image via Wikipaintings.org].

This was a youthful and lively collection, standing out from the current punk trend that's rocking the UK and feeling more authentic. As ever with Gupta, the shapes of pieces were edgy and directional, from crisp jumpsuits to minimalist sheath dresses, accessorised with the white spectacles that have become a signature part of her work. It feels like she has really hit her stride.

If you want to see more examples of art inspiring fashion from the blog, check out the Ansel Adams and David Hockney-esque prints by Warehouse and the Delaroche tribute dress by Giles Deacon that had me waxing lyrical. For even more designer insight, see my report from the front row of Holly Fulton's A/W 2012 show and my backstage interview with her about the connection between fashion and art. Make no mistake, readers: the two topics are firmly intertwined, as Aarti Vijay Gupta has proved so recently.

The fashion loop: what's so radical about A/W13's high street buys?

I bloody love Autumn/Winter clothing collections; it's no secret that I normally find them more exciting and creatively diverse than Spring/Summer, when pastels, neon and all things 'cute' come out of the woodwork with ritual predictability. But this year I've found that the bigger ritual and the feeling of being stuck on repeat has come from my first glimpses of A/W13 on the high street.

That pink coat could have been bought last year, but it's a new Zara offering.

[image via Company.co.uk].

Whilst I loved the big trends of A/W12, with the burgundy and the khaki and the navy, the continual appeal of leather trousers (which have been knocking around for a few years now), the quirky squirrel and owl motifs on jumpers, the punk nail art, the fake fur and mohair in crazy colours, the dark florals, the tartan prints, the pale pink coats, the spaghetti strap silky camisoles and slip dresses, the houndstooth and the metallics and the faux-leather midi skirts, I've found them to be coming around again with very little difference in what's being offered. 

Clearly retailers know when they're onto a good thing, and we obviously all bought up the stuff last year, but how much of it - realistically speaking - needs replacing (apart from my faux-leather trousers, which need yearly replenishment as the knees always go)? How many trends are we going to buy into for the second or third consecutive year and not even bat an eyelid, dampening the impact of the really unusual trends for this coming season, like Celine's bag lady chic and Stella McCartney's oversize pinstripes? In amongst all of the recycling, the Celine and Stella tributes aren't given the edge that they need to stand out against the repeated failsafe hits.

 Brocade for A/W12 from Marks and Spencer [image via Telegraph.co.uk].

Brocade comes back again for A/W13 [image via Telegraph.co.uk].

It just feels oddly like a huge case of deja-vu as I walk round the shops and browse the internet, seeing the same tartans, the same kooky jumpers, the same punk luxe and grunge pieces. In fact, currently in the Zara sale you can pick up a faux-leather burgundy pleated skirt, which looks remarkably like it could work for the upcoming season, so just buy it now and save it for a month or two and you'll be ahead of the game... or just wondering if it's a ploy to make you need the inevitable newer and shinier version that they're bound to bring out. 

Of course, people may have missed out on certain key purchases first time around, and I'm all for getting the items I should have put in my basket in 2012 (pale pink coat, please), but there's honestly very little at the moment that feels distinctly new or innovative to make this feel like a new season. Maybe the retailers are afraid to take a risk and they feel safer picking up the trends that have been recycled by designers again and again; maybe it's down to the trend forecasters looking to street style photographers and hipsters, who are all looking at each other, and we've just run out of ideas? Has there been a saturation point? Or can we expect a sudden injection of originality in September and October, when the real hardcore winter fashion starts to hit home?

 Shearling meets leather for A/W12 at Zara with this short jacket [image via Look.co.uk].

Here it comes again, with the 'combination cropped jacket' for A/W13 [image via Zara.com].

If you think I'm catastrophising, I'd ask you to go into any high street fashion retailer - Zara, M&S, H&M, Primark - and check out their early A/W13 drop right now. Look at the items carefully and try and picture them in light of what was on sale a year ago. Does anything feel like it's too new, design-wise, to be something you could have bought in 2012? I challenge you to find five items that are definitely from this year's Autumn/Winter collection and couldn't be mistaken for last year's, or 2011's. Let me know if you're successful. The best examples I could track down were some rather brilliant furry winklepickers and slipper shoes from M&S - pure fun, but I need more like this in order to feel confident that retailers aren't getting lazy.

What to pack - and what to buy - in Thailand

So, it's been a little while since I returned from Thailand, but I've been dealing with a delightful inner ear infection, which meant that it's taken me a while to get back to normal. This means I've been a little late in filling you in on bright and bold Thai style, but I figured it would be better to wait until the room stopped spinning... call me old fashioned and all.

 Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui, at midday.

 The eco-friendly and fabulous Charm Churee Resort, Koh Tao.

Meeting a tiger for the first time.

Without further ado, this is what I'd advise for you to pack and to buy in order to make the most of a Thailand holiday, whether you're at the beach or in the temples.

 Looking out over Koh Nangyuan Island during a snorkelling stop-off.

Swimwear by Tu, sunglasses by Bromptons Opticians, Brighton.

With three members of my Contiki tour group, after tackling a cookery class.

Primark maxi dress to combat the heat.

Hitting up Green Mango, one of the best clubs in Koh Samui.

Skull print skirt and sheer vest, both by H&M.

Fill the suitcase with...

• Sleeveless blouses from H&M. In an array of colours and prints, and typically at just £7.99 to £12.99 a pop, they're a real bargain, and you won't find anything quite as versatile here. I teamed mine with a skull print skirt, candy striped shorts and tile print silk trousers.
• Patterned dresses from Primark, Topshop, H&M or New Look, in lightweight fabrics. I found that many of the dresses on sale in the Eastern Islands were either designed for lithe size 8 figures, a bit mumsy and plain, or very synthetic, which seemed odd for a hot country, as the last thing I wanted was a ton of viscose to help me work up a sweat. The most useful dress I took was a very thin strapless paisley number from Primark.
• A couple of scarves or pashminas that can be used to cover up in a temple, wrap around your swimwear, protect your body from the hot sand on the beach or to tie around your hair. The ones you can buy in resorts tend to be heavily tie-dyed, which isn't everyone's cup of tea.
• One or two pairs of shorts, especially if you're going to be in very touristy areas, as everyone will be wearing them and you'd be mad to get stuck in trousers the entire time. Hotpants were pretty ubiquitous in the resorts I visited, especially Koh Pha Ngan, so there's no need to play it safe with city shorts unless you want to.
• Sun cream. Whilst it is obviously available in Thailand, you'll be paying over the odds for anything beyond Factor 15, so save your money and pack a decent supply of cream in your case.
• Supportive swimwear from La Senza and Bravissimo, if you're blessed with curves. Thai bikinis tend to flatter smaller chested girls, often lacking underwiring and only using minimal padding, but going to town on the embellishments and patterns instead.
• Lipstains, tinted lipbalms or liquid lipstick. You do not want to be carrying normal waxy bullet lipsticks in a hot country, unless you enjoy dealing with a hot mess in your handbag. I took Rimmel's Apocalips and also a dark berry stain and found that they were really useful.
• Blotting paper and mineral powder foundation for mopping up your face. Even the smallest movement can work up a sweat in the Thai heat!
• Canvas trainers, simple sandals and the odd pair of flip flops. Heels aren't necessary, not even wedges, unless you're going somewhere really up-market. Most people wear flip flops in bars and clubs, though you can buy some more when you're out here if you want to stock up on particular colours or designs.

Pop culture is alive and well in the markets of Koh Samui.

 Take your pick, from 'Prada' purses to 'Chanel' handbags.

Elephant print harem pants being put through their paces on a waterfall.

Hit the shops for...

• Harem pants in vibrant colours and patterns. They're ten a penny here and they honestly do fit all sizes, so you can just pick your favourites and get haggling. I got mine for 250 baht, which is about £5; the stallholder wanted 400 baht originally, so this was a pretty good deal. If I'd bought them beforehand on Ebay, they would have cost about £15.
• Kaftans. Yes, I could have gone to Florence & Fred at Tesco before I left, but the Thai designs are livelier and the fabrics are more lightweight, which is what you really need on the beach.
• Crochet string bikinis, if they're your thing - personally I'm not a fan, but they seemed to be in plentiful supply and were reasonably priced.
• Edgy vest tops with pop culture logos and slogans, from Heineken Beer and Jack Daniel's to Run DMC and Rihanna, many of which can be seen in markets back home for about £10 each. I opted for those advertising Chang and Singha, two local beers, plus a Damien Hirst skull print, and paid about 150-180 baht per top.
• Not quite legitimate designer bags and purses. Whilst I wouldn't normally advocate buying fakes, there are some really good imitations here, as well as some hilariously bad ones. When my H&M day bag broke in Koh Samui, I rushed out to buy something - anything - that was small, waterproof and stylish. I ended up with a tomato red 'Mulberry' bag, negotiated down from 1,800 baht to 1,100, which subsequently lasted a few days before the stitching started to unravel on one side of the strap. It's at the cobbler's as I type, so make of that what you will, but I hope to get some use out of it once it's fixed.
• Last minute duty free bargains that you can make use of during the flight and on the trip; my choice was Lancome's Hydra Zen Neurocalm moisturiser (£32.50), which calms stressed skin, and the special edition Alber Elbaz for Lancome Hypnose Doll Eyes mascara (£19.50).
• Something neon for the Half Moon or Full Moon Party, if you happen to be in Koh Pha Ngan at the right time. Whatever you wear will get wrecked, so don't rock up in your best clothes.

If you're lucky enough to go to Thailand, I hope these tips will help you to pack economically and save some space for the things that matter in your suitcase - both the staples from home and the souvenirs you bring back.

Thailand Awaits...

After saying this would be the year that I somehow managed to cut down on my clothes budget in favour of travelling more, I'm pleased to say that tomorrow I'll be taking on Thailand for nine days of island exploring on the east coast, seeing Koh Samui, Koh Tao and Koh Pha Ngan. 

This is definitely my kind of style [image via Thailand-Maps.com].

Rather than show you what I've packed in my rucksack clothes-wise, I thought I'd give you the lowdown after I get back, so I can tell you the things I took but never used, and the things I wished I'd included in my checklist but assumed I wouldn't need. For example, when I went to Iceland I assumed that I wouldn't need waterproof over-trousers; how wrong I was when I jumped onto a whale watching tour that had run out of spare overalls and I was wearing jeggings. 

In a similar trouser-related incident, I realised in Rome that it wasn't a good idea to wear skinny jeans on a Vespa tour (you don't want your movement to be impaired when you have to almost high-kick your way off the gorgeous Vespa). So, lessons learned in both cases, I'll be giving you a full packing overview after the event, as well as showing you Thai fashion trends. 

 My hero product [image via RoullierWhite.com].

However, the one little gem I will impart is that I'll be taking Mrs. White's Unstung Hero with me. This has been something of a miracle product for many travel pros, with CN Traveller and the Independent both endorsing it for being an effective and genuinely lovely smelling natural insect repellent - it has an odour of lemon tea, not the whiff of the medicine chest. 

Now I've tried a lot of products to discourage mozzies, yet they often seem to find their way through my defences; not so with Mrs. White's on hand. The only thing I would suggest is decanting it into a 100ml plastic spray bottle from the 250ml glass dispenser that it's sold in - nobody wants to haul glass around in their luggage if they can help it. 

On that note, I'll be off to finish the very last of my packing. See you on the other side, and be prepared for a Thai fashion post when I get back!

Mirror, Mirror: three brands launching beauty lines in 2013

It seems that the latest move for fashion brands isn't to launch a line of sunglasses or team up with a drinks company - it's beauty that's got them all motivated. Look at the retail success stories and it's not hard to see why, with Giorgio Armani counters consistently delivering cult products to beauty halls, American Apparel getting its claws well and truly into the heady world of nail varnish, and Topshop's lipsticks being a reliable staple in many women's make-up bags.

 [Marc Jacobs images via Popsugar].

Of course, with every fantastic cosmetics line like Gareth Pugh for MAC (be still, my beating heart), there is always the risk of a dud - does anyone remember the ill-fated Rodarte range, also for MAC, which made light of the feminicide in Juarez and was therefore scrapped at the last minute? The best thing is to stick to inoffensive but cool product names, a mixture of quirky disco colours and wearable everyday shades, and ultra-glossy packaging. Here are the newest three ranges you should be adding to your shopping list pretty soon.

It's all about orange.

 This burgundy polish is perfect for autumn.

Marc Jacobs

Whilst there have been a few tempting images doing the rounds on the internet over the last few weeks, Popsugar was the site to release a preview of the entire collection. Ok, so nobody can get their hands on it until 9th August at Sephora (sadly we're Sephora-less in the UK), but there's no reason not to drool in anticipation over the wearable colour palette being delivered by the great Mr. Jacobs. Many of the products are the kind of thing that a Jackie Collins heroine would wear; slick tangerine lipstick, sparkling champagne nail polish, pillar box red lip gloss, topped off with an eyeliner called Magic Marc'er (utter genius). These little gems are the perfect kick-ass finishing touch to your beauty regime and I'm sure they'll sell like hot cakes.

 Make Up heel [image via Polyvore].

 The famous Pigalle [image via Net-a-Porter.com].

Christian Louboutin

Now, this story may be old news - it first broke in May 2012 - but there's no sign yet of the collection created by Louboutin with Batallure Beauty, despite him recently stoking the fire with a sound bite about women being 'unsophisticated' without make-up. Knowing that the great man is famous for his red-soled vertiginous heels (most notably the Pigalle style), it's safe to say that his cosmetics probably won't be aimed at wallflowers either, and red is bound to play a part in the colour palette. However, there's also a high chance of seeing some serious bling and loads of mad-cap unrestrained creative expression - very different from the simplicity of the Pigalle. After all, his shoes have been inspired by bondage, googly eyes, Guinness cans and the pointe position of ballet dancers. When the range does eventually launch in late 2013, you can bet that Louboutin stalwarts like Dita Von Teese and Daphne Guinness will be the first to sport it. 

 The original Marchesa dress that inspired the wraps [image via Fashionista.com].

 Ready for 3D designer talons? [Image via Fashionista.com].

Marchesa for Revlon

Marchesa often makes waves for dressing glamazons on the red carpet, but this partnership with Revlon offers a bite sized - or finger sized - slice of luxury to an audience that can only dream of dressing like a star. Nail wraps are already a huge trend, so creating designs inspired by the brand's catwalk creations is a simple but effective way of spreading their appeal. All that's been revealed for now is that the first part of the collection will consist of eight different sets, called 3D Jewel Appliqués, and they'll hit the US in October - again, no word yet on when they'll be available to UK customers. The sneak preview image of one set shows gorgeous jade and turquoise florals inspired by a lace and tulle dress. Further editions from the collection will cover make-up and brushes, which should be similarly feminine and sophisticated. 

So, with all of these cosmetics lines dropping in the near future, the question is: who'll be next to jump on the bandwagon? I'm dreaming of eco-friendly Vivienne Westwood lipsticks, shocking pink Roksanda Ilincic blusher and punchy House of Holland nail art pens...

Style in Almodovar's 'Women on the Verge...'

Anyone who's watched a Pedro Almodovar film will appreciate that the director likes his women strong, captivating and usually taking centre stage, but when I sat down to watch Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown (1988), I wasn't quite prepared for how arresting their costumes would be. 

Every female character had a distinct look that only she could carry off, whilst the only memorable male outfit was the bizarre cartoon-esque get-up sported by Madrid's most sensitive taxi driver - think big 80s bleached hair and a heavy dose of lime green, against a leopard print taxi interior. 

 These well dressed women hint at how much fun you'll have with the film if you love style.

 The slick and eye-catching opening titles.

This is the man to thank: costume designer Jose Maria de Cossio.

This film not only had major staying power because of its complex plot and unexpectedly good one-liners during traumatic moments, but it struck me that the costumes were impossible to get out of my head. I kept thinking about Pepa's Vans-style trainers and hibiscus-print shirt, contrasted with her more business-like long line cardigans, which she even double-layered at one point. 

 What to wear when your bed bursts into flames, as demonstrated by Pepa (Carmen Maura).

 Pepa examines Ivan's wardrobe.

This calls for two cardigans.

I loved the innocence of her best friend Candela's tube skirt and top ensemble, worn with knee-high socks and creepers - an outfit that could have come straight out of Topshop this season. Candela (Maria Barranco) then borrowed Pepa's black dress, slicked back her hair in true 80s style and took on a much more serious fashion personality, as she tried to get to grips with the crazy and dangerous situation she'd found herself in, which Almodovar has made brilliantly tragi-comic.

 L-R: Marisa (Rossy de Palma), Candela (Maria Barranco) and Carlos (Antonio Banderas).

Candela's working the stripes and the embellished jacket.

A serious event needs a sharper outfit.

For another key character Lucia (Julieta Serrano), fashion was all about looking to the past, because the happiest times of her life were decades old. Cue meticulously applied eyeliner, a beehive wig and childlike accessories such as white tights and a hat that looked like it was once a traffic cone.

The eyeliner excuse: probably used by women around the world. As said by Lucia to Carlos.

Totally incognito.

The most interesting costume moments definitely appeared when things really started to unravel for the women. That meant weird hair and gazpacho-soaked clothing to go with the heightened tension and urgency.

Not quite sticking to smart-casual here, Lucia.

One of the morals of the story, as Pepa explains to Ana (Ana Leza).

This could almost be the basis of a Lichtenstein painting.

Basically, I can't recommend this film enough if you're into costume design and you love the 80s. There's so much expressed by the outfits in Almodovar's Women on the Verge... and it's great to see it lighting up the screen.

19 years on, Prada has cast another black model... yes, this is the 21st century

It feels weird writing about momentous news when it doesn't sound quite as momentous as it should be. I am so glad that Prada has decided to cast a black model in its ad campaigns for the first time in 19 years - the last lucky lady was one Naomi Campbell, when we were in the age of the supermodel, back in '94 - but how on earth has it taken so long? Why has there been no black model deemed suitable in the interim? Unless I'm mistaken, the past two decades haven't exactly been devoid of candidates. 

 Malaika's high-profile ad for the upcoming season [Image via Jezebel.com]

Malaika Firth, the stunning British Kenyan model used in the Fall 13 campaign alongside famous Chinese model Fei Fei Sun, has now broken barriers in the fashion world for marking the turning point in this designer's campaigns. Miuccia Prada, whilst being a supremely talented woman, hasn't exactly done much for diversity in the past (see Jezebel), until she brought Jourdan Dunn onto the runway in 2008, which was seen as a revelation; please bear in mind, this was 2008, not 1908 - it should not have had to be a novelty. We should have been stamping down inequality on the catwalk decades ago, not just letting it slide because it's the done thing. There's making a trend, and then there's being narrow-minded.

Naomi's 1994 campaign, shot by Steven Meisel [Image via Fashionbombdaily.com]

In case Prada wasn't sure who would have been good to hire between 1994 and 2013, here are a few suggestions for potential ad campaign stars:

• Sessilee Lopez
• Chanel Iman
• Joan Smalls
• Arlenis Sosa
• Liya Kebede
• Alek Wek
• Nyasha Matonhodze (I know she's not as high profile as the others, but I think she'd make a great Prada girl - did you see her cover for Love Magazine?)
  

Basically, as amazing as it is to see Malaika and Fei Fei being given the nod by Miuccia, I think it's really sad that they've had to wait that long for the tide to turn. How can it be that 19 years is allowed to pass, during which we can assume non-white women don't wear Prada, buy into its branding or worship its designs (and, if they do, they're left feeling alienated and ignored)? This has to stop. 

P.S. If you want to read more about my writing on the catwalk's lack of ethnic diversity, check out my blog series. For more on body shapes and equality on the catwalk, click here.