Showing posts with label Stella McCartney. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stella McCartney. Show all posts

Monday, 3 September 2012

British Fashion Awards 2012: The Nominees

She failed to notice she was obstructing the red carpet...
[Image by Valie Export, 1976]

It's BFA time again and the nominees are in. The British Fashion Awards are one of the most celebrated annual fashion events, rightfully highlighting talent in the industry and giving young designers a helping hand. Who's made their mark in 2012? See below. Those marked with an asterisk are my tips for winning the awards.

Accessory Designer
Katie Hillier
Nicholas Kirkwood*
Philip Treacy

Emerging Talent Award: Ready to Wear
J.W. Anderson
Michael van der Ham
Simone Rocha*

Emerging Talent Award: Accessories
Jordan Askill
Sophie Hulme*
Dominic Jones

Emerging Talent: Menswear
Agi & Sam
Lou Dalton
Jonathan Saunders*

Designer Brand
Burberry
Stella McCartney
Alexander McQueen*
Mulberry

Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator
Edward Enninful
Katie Grand
Professor Louise Wilson OBE*

New Establishment Award
Erdem
Jonathan Saunders
Meadham Kirchhoff*

Menswear Designer
Richard James* [who has the same name as my uncle, so I'll make him my favourite to win...]
Kim Jones for Louis Vuitton
Oliver Spencer

Model
Cara Delevigne
Jourdan Dunn*
David Gandy

Red Carpet Creator
Victoria Beckham
Roksanda Ilincic*
Stella McCartney
Alessandra Rich

Designer of the Year
Christopher Kane
Mary Katrantzou
Stella McCartney*

British Style Award
Voted for by the public, with an insanely long nominations list, the highlights 
(with my favourite three choices) are:
 Adele
Victoria Beckham
Helena Bonham Carter
Duchess of Cambridge
Henry Holland
Natalie Massenet
Phoebe Philo
Lara Stone
Tilda Swinton*
Tinie Tempah*
Vivienne Westwood*

What do you think of the nominees - is there anyone on there you're surprised to see, or someone you feel has been missed out?

Sunday, 3 June 2012

Fashion Sketches: Quick Response to Ballgowns at the V&A

 Sketch of Victor Edelstein dress, 1986, silk satin, worn by a politician's wife.

Here are a couple of sketches I made today, based on Saturday's trip to the 'Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950' exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum. It contained a huge range of gowns, from the dynamic duo Bellville Sassoon and the mighty House of Worth, to the big contemporary names of Mary Katrantzou, Stella McCartney and the genius that is Gareth Pugh, who used metallic leather to create a stark and striking gown with a severely high neckline. 

In the museum itself it was really hard to capture the mood and feel of the dresses and accessories, because there was no photography allowed, but I also got told off very rudely for 'sketching', even though I was literally drawing one minute stick figures in my notepad with basic silhouettes, and was in no way trying to run up an unethical warehouse full of pattern copies in the space of 60 seconds. Even in my recent trip to the Design Museum's Christian Louboutin show, we were proudly told that 'sketching is encouraged' (hooray!).

As it happens there was no appropriately displayed signage in the V&A saying that drawing was strictly verboten, so I had no idea this was going to result in being left to feel like a naughty schoolgirl who'd tried to walk off with an exhibit. I was really surprised that my very crude and frankly terrible images, which would help to jog my memory when writing exhibition reviews for various websites, were deemed so devious. I had a press pass in my hand and have been to the V&A as a journalist on many occasions, where my notes are crucial in order to give a specific and vaguely intelligent write-up. This was a really poignant and fascinating exhibition and it deserves more than the casual glance of the average tourist.

Sketch of Nicholas Oakwell dress, A/W 2011, with constellation print and nude bodice.

Three highlights of 'Ballgowns':
  • Alexander McQueen's elegant and timeless angel print dress, from his final collection in Autumn/Winter 2010. With a major focus on handcrafted elements, his print took on the form of a relief sculpture of two angels. It's the kind of thing you'd kill to wear.
  • Anouska Hempel's wonderfully graphic and stark monochrome dress from 1991, with angular shapes that fit around the body and turn you into your own work of art.
  •  Zandra Rhodes' 1981 'Renaissance of Gold Cloth' dress, made to explore the panniers that were fashionable in Elizabethan times. So many onlookers at the exhibition were taken aback by this piece, calling it tacky or embarrassing, but it was really playful and inventive. Zandra herself wore a version of it in 1982.
 Although I found the exhibition absorbing, it was incredibly difficult to enjoy the beautiful gowns with such a transient viewing experience. The free guidebook we were given had no images in it, meaning that unless you were confident in connecting designer names and years with dresses then you'd have a hard time accurately remembering anything from 'Ballgowns' in the long term. It was sad that the entire thing seemed to be one long advert for the expensive hardback book in the shop, which is not accessible enough for Joe Public to consider buying after they've already invested in their ticket. I had hoped that we'd be allowed to take home a little more of the magic with us, instead of being left to feel like outsiders looking into this glamorous and unobtainable world. Please, V&A, rethink your sketching rules here, or at least display them more prominently and then give us a strong selection of affordable postcards at the tills.

[All images my own, based on rough sketches and produced afterwards using the Paper app. Please ask before reproducing - though sketching is not forbidden...].

Monday, 16 April 2012

Top Spring/Summer 2012 Trends

As we're mid-way through the season, it seems fitting to look at the trends that have really made an impact in fashion and beauty. Here are seven of the best, giving you a week's worth of looks to road test:

 [Images via Style.com - please click to enlarge. 
L-R: Viktor & Rolf, Comme des Garcons, Meadham Kirchhoff].

1. Living Doll

On the Catwalk: Viktor & Rolf, Comme des Garcons and Meadham Kirchhoff all went for the doll aesthetic, fuelled by satin ruffles, frou frou skirts and very high necklines. Accessories included knee high socks, liberal amounts of glitter and incredibly long eyelashes, with Red Riding Hood-style capes seen at Vivienne Westwood to cover up. 

Wear with: tons of feline eyeliner, a sweet shop necklace and a quirky handbag, taking your cue from Olympia Le Tan's book clutch bags as seen on A-listers including Michelle Williams, who went for JD Salinger's Catcher in the Rye as her arm candy.

2. Cut and Paste

On the Catwalk: paste jewellery was seen at Miu Miu (in the form of cameo necklaces) and Dolce & Gabbana (used to embellish bodysuits and dresses), whilst Christian Dior's Spring Couture collection included jackets and skirts with exaggerated and obvious stitching lines. Meanwhile, laser-cut fabric turned heads at Louis Vuitton, Oscar de la Renta and Valentino, among others. The rule of thumb: either less is more, or more is more, with intricate layers of jewels or stripped back cluster sections of lace-like fabric holes doing the talking. Either way it's a feminine trump card that is more ladylike than the doll look.

Wear with: white tights and a beehive hairdo, applying as much Ellnett hairspray as possible - it's used by countless hair stylists and models.

[L-R: Stella McCartney, Lanvin, Balenciaga].

3. Olympic Arms

On the Catwalk: the shoulder was a key focus at Stella McCartney and Lanvin, where athletic arms really shone and you could forget about digging out your sports bra. The sports luxe trend relies on lashings of satin, halternecks, the occasional basketball vest shape and plenty of baseball jackets. Balenciaga provided padded shoulders that American jocks could almost carry off with aplomb. 

Wear with: a hint of body shimmer and bronzer (not too much or you'll give it an Essex feel), alongside a neoprene rucksack, fluoro eyeliner and Topshop hi-tops if you're going down the casual vest route.

4. Serious Talons

On the Celebrities: Both Adele and Lady Gaga have, ahem, spiked interest with their pointed manicures. If you're looking to really go for something different in beauty then this is definitely a style worth considering, as you'll never be able to stand a boring squared-off row of false nails again. Grab a rounded set and file them to an inverted 'V' shape if you can't find cool enough options on the high street.

Wear with: a pair of killer heels and some chandelier earrings. This look is versatile enough to work with several different styles, from leather jacket and hot-pants to the little black dress.

 [L-R: Charlotte Ronson, Prada, Louis Vuitton].

5. The Life Aquatic

On the Catwalk: it didn't have to be sea-themed, but aqua was everywhere during the S/S 2012 fashion weeks, from Charlotte Ronson's cool USA chiffon vibe to the elegant lace-clad Rodarte girl and the city-dwelling Prada woman with her long coat hiding a sneaky crop top. Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton brought us aqua tweed and gorgeous triple-strap kitten heels, House of Holland introduced cloudy aqua denim amidst sugared almond shades, and we all suddenly felt the need for an injection of that pale greenish-blue. This may have been the tip of the iceberg as far as pastels go right now, but it was a bloody big iceberg; aqua is the colour du jour.

Wear with: take a tip from Prada and go for bright red, making the blue tones really pop in comparison. Don't forget an aqua manicure or pedicure (try Barry M's Blue Moon) and a slick of pale lip gloss.

6. Deco Decade

On the Catwalk: Whether you blame the recession's glance back to the Great Depression, the Great Gatsby remake or the fact that Downton Abbey will be placing its third series in this decade, there was no denying the historical link between Dolce & Gabbana, Alberta Ferretti and Etro was firmly set to Art Deco. Milan Fashion Week, in particular, went crazy for the 1920s, but many other designers payed heed to all things Jazz Age, including Ralph Lauren. Key quirks included geometric lines, burnished gold accents on dresses, thin headbands and t-bar or Mary Jane shoes. Even at Victoria Beckham, the drop waist dress could be seen to have a 20s origin if you looked hard enough.

Wear with: the Marcel wave. A notoriously fiddly hair do, this is one of the most iconic things about the 1920s. Curl your hair and set the kinks with curling tongs and metal hairdressing clips, ideally following some of the brilliant step-by-step guides on Youtube.

 [L-R: Mary Katrantzou, Rodarte, Erdem].

7. Heavy Petal

On the Catwalk: the queen of intense floral prints is Mary Katrantzou, who continued to use them in her work but also added newer influences like underwater and animal forms which sat well with the flowers that made her famous. Meanwhile Erdem, another London print king, looked to chintzy blooms that stood out thanks to vintage-style hats, giving everything an air of cool granny chic. Lastly, those California Dreamers at Rodarte - sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy - made us look afresh at Van Gogh's sunflowers for our floral cues.

Wear with: all black or white creates a blank canvas from which the prints can almost blossom. Try a black pencil skirt with a simple black beret, a plain white t-shirt and studded kitten heels, or black leather trousers and minimalist boots.

Of course, this is by no means a comprehensive list, as there's still half a season for micro trends to emerge and expected trends to sell pitifully (yep, it can happen). Just bear in mind that these seven are going to be sticking around for a while yet, so you'd better get used to it!

Wednesday, 18 January 2012

S/S12 Aqua and Mint: Dreams of Minty Fresh Grins, Lions and Vintage


[Original image via Lavish Alice, manipulated by me].
Mint Green Sheer Lace Dress, Lavish Alice, £26.00.
This is the perfect combination of an innocent shape and more daring lace. The green is subtle and smokey - it would look great with bold eye make-up, clashing tights and killer heels.

[Original image via Own the Runway, manipulated by me].
Blue Colour Block Curve Dress, Own the Runway, £16.99. 
Another dress I've got my eye on is this stunning aqua number, almost the colour of toothpaste, which is inspired by the  structure of Kate Winslet's bold Stella McCartney body-con choice, called the Octavia, that the actress wore to two industry events. It's been updated for S/S2012 at Own the Runway with the crisp colour blocking of aqua, black and white. I think some grey accessories would really set it off.


[Image my own].
I found this rusting metal last spring and it reminded me of the Lavish Alice dress - vintage, delicate and almost sea green in colour.


[Image my own]. 
Meanwhile this oxidised copper door decoration of a Boston townhouse reminded me of the colour from the Own the Runway dress. I also like how the ornate design of the lions is completely different to the minimalism of the dress, but both images use curves to great effect. The difference is that the door looks as if it might bite you.

Monday, 28 November 2011

British Fashion Awards 2011 - what do you think of the results?

So, the British Fashion Awards are over for another year. Here's who scooped the top accolades, and my responses:

Emerging talent award – ready to wear: Mary Katrantzou (this was to be expected. With her LFW status as the darling of the new design breed, and a diffusion line for Topshop, she was a dead cert here, but it's well deserved. I will be interested to see if she can keep her shapes evolving, though).

Emerging talent award – accessories: Tabitha Simmons (with lots of historical references and vintage nods in previous collections, particularly SS11, she's a designer who mixes the past and present effectively).

Emerging talent award – menswear: Christopher Raeburn (he's a great innovator and he's been on the ethical fashion radar for quite some time. I'm glad he's now got mainstream recognition. His recent LFW exhibition was really strong, with pieces suspended on ropes).

Accessory designer: Charlotte Olympia (I have previously posted about being a fan of hers, so unsurprisingly I'm pleased that she's been given this award. She keeps generating new ideas and updating the classics without compromising her integrity).

Menswear designer: Kim Jones (simplicity and edginess: two of my favourite menswear adjectives. He fits well with both of these descriptions, so it's a thumbs up from me).

Designer brand: Victoria Beckham (she works incredibly hard and really does know her fashion, contrary to her previous dalliances with WAG style and co-ordinating husband and wife ensembles. I never thought I'd call her an icon, but she truly is).

Model: Stella Tennant (yes, she's good, but I'd have preferred a buck in the trend of the last few years, which has been pale and interesting blonde women. Jourdan Dunn's triumphant win in 2008 seems ages ago. I feel like it's time for the BFAs to honour a more diverse image of British fashion modelling).

BFC outstanding achievement in fashion: Paul Smith (the creator of an empire that still generates quirky ideas to this day).

Isabella Blow award for fashion creator: Sam Gainsbury (having worked on the great Fashion Rocks events, which combined music and style, and more recently launching the McQ line for Alexander McQueen, she's also responsible for countless other fashion events. It's great that behind-the-scenes creatives are acknowledged - not just the designers themselves).

Red carpet award: Stella McCartney (another dead cert, as she's giving us an anniversary exhibition at LFW in February that will be separate from her catwalk collection, and there'll be a retrospective too).

Designer of the year: Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen (after all the Kate Middleton hype, who else could it have gone to? Basically I think this would have gone to whoever had designed the Duchess of Cambridge's dress. Yes, Sarah Burton has been great taking over the helm at McQueen, but this award would have been all about that marriage).

New establishment award: Christopher Kane (intelligent, humble and very creative; I love seeing what he and sister Tammy come up with next. They're a design duo to be reckoned with).

British style award brought to you by Vodafone: Alexa Chung (well, she does represent the style ambitions of teenage girls across Britain, but I find her a little predictable. Sorry. Would have liked this to go to someone a bit more boundary-pushing, such as Paloma Faith).

*

What are your thoughts on these results? Do they feel representative of modern fashion to you, or do you feel like someone is missing from the list?

Wednesday, 3 August 2011

Work Wear Overhaul


Is your work dress code one of those horrific 'smart-casual' categories, leaving you somewhere between jeans and a trouser suit? This jumper dress, from Stella McCartney at Net-a-Porter, is a great example of how to avoid flashing flesh whilst also not looking too uptight. It injects colour without blinding anyone sharing office space with you (take note, lovers of neon). The high street should have something similar next season, so keep an eye out.

If you feel too frumpy in trousers but you need something smart, this Primark dress (from the Autumn/Winter collection, as seen at Look Magazine Online) is the perfect solution. You can pick up a slip to wear underneath it, then add brogues or sandals depending on what the weather is doing at the time. The mid-length of this dress means that it's appropriate for work, but just keep the cleavage area covered. The shape of this piece is similar to Miu Miu's SS/11 collection, showing how the British high street is really listening to designers but hopefully moving away from producing carbon catwalk copies.

For classic shapes in neutral colours, see these three pieces from Vivienne Westwood online [collaged by me]. With a simple pin-tuck, the pinstripe pencil skirt is more flattering and forgiving on the hips - great if you're not exactly boyish in figure. The Dryad dress is an example of how to do work function chic - still looking smart, but with a more relaxed and summery vibe in white. Lastly, the striped shirt with tie-print detail shows how you can have fun with your 9-5 wardrobe. On the high street, look for skinny ties or shirts with piping detail and contrasting cuffs.

Is your workplace full of creative types and fashion-led outfits? Take a tip from Alexander Wang [also at Net-a-Porter], where you'll find the edgiest sunglasses for popping out of the office on a coffee run, the sensible black maxi skirt that spirals into ribbons, and the sheer shirt with leather edges. For similar products, check out River Island, Urban Outfitters and Topshop. Similar shirts are widely available in the sales at the moment, if you're willing to add your own panels.
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