Showing posts with label life. Show all posts
Showing posts with label life. Show all posts

Sunday, 18 November 2012

Death: A Self-Portrait, at the Wellcome Collection

This Thursday I headed to the Wellcome Collection in London for the first day of an important new exhibition which tackles one of society's biggest taboos: death. Though we all know that death is an inevitable conclusion - the 'self-portrait' of the title refers to you, too - it's something which most cultures struggle to articulate and prefer to leave as an afterthought. The Wellcome does the opposite and confronts the Grim Reaper-shaped elephant in the room, which is both brave and eye-opening.

 La Vie et Mort postcard, c.1900-1910, with unforgettably clever imagery.
All images via the Wellcome Collection.

The exhibition is based on the huge collection of deathly artwork amassed by former art dealer Richard Harris (no, not the bloke who played Dumbledore), gathered over 12 years and covering all kinds of different cultures and time periods. From a 1300s skull sculpture to 1800s Japanese paintings, right up to an incredible plastecine piece (2011) by an Argentinian art collective, the theme of mortality is ever-present. If you're one of those people who finds morbid imagery a bit too creepy then this is a brilliant place to confront your fears and end up feeling a bit more comfortable with skeletons, bodies and rituals.

When Shall We Meet Again? Gelatin silver print, c.1900.

As someone who loves skull motifs and wrote an incredibly long art theory essay on anatomy in the art world, I was certainly in my element exploring the collection, from vanitas portraits to anonymous photos featuring people posing alongside skeletons. Death is one of those things that unites us all, rich or poor, and it completely goes against the kind of things I write about on this blog for the rest of the time - all those outfits and handbags mean very little once you're gone, except for maybe helping you to look your best in the funeral home. This exhibition looks at some of the ways in which people try and keep memories alive, through portraits and ritualistic altar building, and also the ways in which they begin to accept death, such as in the use of memento mori in imagery. There was also a lot of attention paid to anatomical discoveries and the advances that helped us to understand the body, which obviously involved cadavers, and there was a really touching sepia photo from an anatomy class that was titled 'When will we meet again?' that caught my eye. The contradiction of preserving bodies by exploring an expired one is something that anatomists are constantly aware of.

If you're at all interested in skulls and conceptual imagery then you need to pay a visit to the Wellcome Collection; it's free, fascinating and you will come away with some very big questions. There is also a series of events accompanying the exhibition, so take a look at the website and find out how you can get under the skin of this important topic. It definitely puts things in perspective.

Death: A Self Portrait - 15th November 2012 - 24th February 2013.

Wellcome Collection, 183 Euston Road, London NW1 2BE (nearest tube station is Euston Square).

Sunday, 15 July 2012

Culture Cloud: 10 Great Books by Women

When a friend of mine recently admitted that he'd never read a book written by a woman, I thought he had a pretty terrible sense of humour; then I realised he wasn't joking. Aside from being prescribed dreary novels in secondary school that he never actually finished, he'd not been introduced to any women writers, which really got me thinking about which ones I'd recommend first. 

Admittedly when thinking about my very favourite books, they're all penned by blokes (not something I'm proud of as a feminist), and I was desperate to contradict this with some solid ideas on who to dig out of the library first. Here are my top suggestions for books written by women:

Jane Eyre cover - Levante Szabo

 [Book cover design by Levante Szabo for the Re-Covered Books challenge].

1. Jane Eyre - Charlotte Brontë

Yep, let's start with the obvious ones. Jane Eyre is one of the best written female protagonists in literary history, who isn't afraid to fight back when her cousin bullies her in the novel's early stages and isn't about to bow down to the backwards-thinking control freak St. John in its later chapters. In between she sleeps in ditches, braves a fire and faces the most prominent instance of  'the madwoman in the attic' from Gothic literature that would soon become a stereotypical plot device for writers across the world. Oh, and she doesn't look like a Disney princess, which is always refreshing.

2. The Color Purple - Alice Walker

With a heartbreaking life story, Walker's narrator Celie has definitely been through the mill (we're talking a good few years' worth of soap opera plots thrown at one character). The book follows her in 1930s America as a downtrodden woman who's trying to emancipate herself and move on from everything she's been through. Male characters are typically violent, cruel or easily led, whereas the females are generally world-weary and streetwise, including the brilliantly named jazz singer Shug Avery.

3. A Spy in the House of Love - Anais Nin

There's nothing like a dysfunctional lead character to keep you on your toes. In the case of Nin's Sabina, we're following a 'fire-bird' who is unpredictable, needy and not afraid to get what she wants.  In modern day terms she'd be diagnosed as having sex addiction and sent to regular meetings, but instead we see her in bars and desperately dialing a mysterious figure known as the lie detector.

4. The Best of Everything - Rona Jaffe


A frank and amazingly poignant look at life at the bottom of the career ladder for four women in 1950s New York, without the buoyancy of Sex and the City's altercations with men (try something more along the implied lines of 'pervy boss, cheating bastard and lying idiot' rather than any of the hilarious monikers coined by Carrie et al). The main protagonist wants more than a life in the typing pool followed by marriage to a complete pillock, and she's going to fight for it.

5. The Tenant of Wildfell Hall - Anne Brontë

If you like your female role models with serious guts then this is the book for you. Married to a drunken and abusive husband, at a time when women had no rights, our heroine ups sticks with her young son and makes a new life for them under a different name. Using a plot device of a story within a story (much like her sister Emily's Wuthering Heights) there's a lot to be revealed once you get beneath the surface of this novel.

6. The Lovely Bones - Alice Sebold

Although the subsequent film adaptation by Peter Jackson didn't quite live up to the hype, The Lovely Bones is a cult story for good reason. With a unique viewpoint, we're invited into the world of Susie Salmon who has been murdered aged 13 and is watching over her community (including the killer) as the fallout of her death continues to affect everyone she left behind. You don't have to be a softie to cry at this. 

Wise Children Book Cover

 [Book cover from the Virago Modern Classics series].

7. Wise Children - Angela Carter 

A family saga but with a huge dose of comedy and just about the strangest group of relatives you've ever met, this is one book to devour. Featuring an acting dynasty, bastardised kids and some hilarious anecdotes, it's hard to put down and also likely to make your grandparents look incredibly dull in comparison. You might also not be able to think of St. Paul's Cathedral in the same way again, thanks to Carter's sharp way with words.  

8. Regeneration - Pat Barker

The first book of the Regeneration trilogy but worth a read in its own right, Barker delves into the lives of World War One soldiers suffering from shell-shock and what is essentially Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder.  Using a mixture of imagined and real occurrences at the Craiglockhart Hospital in Edinburgh, with a particular emphasis on nerves and neurological treatments, it's a fascinating look at a pivotal time in history, with the war poet Siegfried Sassoon being an important character and yet another blur in the lines of fact and fiction.

9. Prozac Nation - Elizabeth Wurtzel

I'm not usually one for autobiographical reading, but Wurtzel has a lot to say for herself and she's an important mouthpiece for discussing the much-stigmatised topic of mental illness. Suffering depression and trying to create some semblance of a normal life around it as she goes to university and tries to carry on, Wurtzel's memoir is a powerful commentary on a condition that is often brushed under the carpet. She's now a successful writer and occasionally pops up in my copies of Elle Magazine.

10. The Book of Human Skin - Michelle Lovric

I've written a lot about this book and keep trying to pass it onto other readers. It's a very unorthodox but compelling story featuring a psychopathic nun, a simple but loveable servant and one of the most evil characters you'll ever meet. If the title puts you off then you're missing out (and the actual storyline isn't too gruesome, so there's no need to panic).

Other contenders that didn't make my Top 10 but deserve a mention:

  • Bonjour, Tristesse by Francois Sagan - written when the author was 18, this is a coming-of-age novel that looks at the difficult relationship between a young girl and one of her father's girlfriends, who poses a threat as she doesn't seem to have the transience of his other partners.
  • Rebecca by Daphne du Maurier - another twist on 'the madwoman in the attic', but this time with her husband's ex-wife always at the back of the mind of our narrator, who has some very big shoes to fill. Housekeeper Mrs. Danvers is a potential candidate for most loyal staff member of the century, with her devotion to the first Mrs. de Winter.
  • Brick Lane by Monica Ali - now something of a modern classic, Ali's book caused controversy for its portrayal of Anglo-Bangladeshi life in Tower Hamlets. There's a lot to be taken from the story of Nazneen, who has an arranged marriage and moves to the Brick Lane area with her new husband, knowing scant English.
  • Blonde Roots by Bernadine Evaristo - a bold re-imagining of slavery with white citizens as the mistreated, looking at role reversals. By turning things upside down she is able to make the perpetrating race experience being victims, whilst also making us aware that many of the events taking place are not necessarily about race but they are about the corruption of power and of people.
Do you have any to add to the list? Let me know.

Sunday, 8 July 2012

Lauren Luke for Refuge: How to look your best the morning after



Watch Lauren Luke's video and make a difference. [Video via Panacea81, Lauren's YouTube channel]. 

In a society where beauty bloggers and YouTube sensations have the power to influence millions of young women with their content, I'm chuffed to see that make-up artist Lauren Luke has taken advantage of this with a brilliant new campaign for the charity Refuge. You may know Lauren for her ability to replicate a celebrity look in just a few minutes, but this time she's focusing on something much closer to home, with a situation that none of us would envy.

Lauren's latest video sees our heroine teaching viewers how to cover up a black eye, a split lip and bruising around the neck - luckily these injuries are fake, as it's all part of her work with the domestic violence organisation. Looking after women who have been suffering attacks by the hands of those closest to them, Refuge aims to 'help bring the issue out of the shadows' and stop this being a 'hidden crime'. Just like Lauren, many victims will struggle to conceal what they've been through (both mentally and physically - but this campaign aims to tackle what is visible to the naked eye). Make-up is not the answer, which is where Refuge comes in. 

Worryingly, some of the comments on the video indicate that not everyone understands the point of the campaign and some people assume that the cuts and bruises are real. One user asked: 'are the bruises real or fake? i hope they're fake :(' [sic] and another posted the completely glib 'Get well soon :)' but fortunately these people seem to be in the minority and the message of the video seems to have got across to most viewers. Producing viral content such as this on the very channels that the next generation is addicted to is a great way of approaching a problem when straightforward advertising often falls on deaf ears. Lauren's status as a role model to women has been used to good effect and I think it's really positive that she's reaching out to her fans so directly, with the video being fully explained at the end but otherwise looking like one of her normal tutorials.

I wish Lauren and Refuge success with the campaign, which is so vitally needed at a time when we're being bombarded with promotional images for the singer Chris Brown's new album across billboards and magazine ads; this being the man who savagely attacked his partner Rihanna only a few years ago. If the media and society's conscience is so short then it's important to look at new ways to make powerful viral content that speaks out against domestic violence, which is why this video is so pivotal.

Watch it, share it and spread the word, using the Twitter hashtag #dontcoveritup. 

Wednesday, 14 March 2012

Es Mi Cumpleanos

[Photo my own].
 The skull-tastic window of Cheap Monday, Carnaby Street.

Today I turned 23 and celebrated with a fashion-centric day out in London, taking my mum along for the ride (and my ever-busy sister, who found a window in her schedule for the sausage and mash restaurant at lunch). We checked out Vivienne Westwood's shop, World's End, which is on the King's Road in Chelsea - not a part of London I spend much time in, but it was great to explore. My best discovery of the day was finding the Chelsea branch of Oxfam that sits next door, where I had a field day rifling through vintage clothes and homeware and definitely did not come away empty-handed. 

Later we tried out the new Monki flagship store in Carnaby Street, browsed in Cheap Monday and got excited at the surprisingly reasonable prices of Mango. We finished the day in the incredibly hard to find Wapping Project exhibition space, near the Tate Modern, where Paolo Roversi (one of my favourite fashion photographers) is currently showing some stunning images.

I'll stick the photos up A.S.A.P, but in the mean time I'm kicking back on my day off and enjoying being a year older!

Best street style spotted: a man in a poncho with gold buckle detail, walking past COS on Regent Street.

Strangest fashion discovery of the day: Shoppers in Monki have really big feet. I couldn't find size 40 boots for love nor money, but sizes 36-39 were in abundance - as a result, I now own size 39 red platforms and just hope I've stopped growing.

Magazine observations: the readers of Shortlist (London's free weekly men's magazine) obviously know how to splash the cash. An extensive feature on brogues had nothing under £150.

Sunday, 30 October 2011

Remembrance Poppies - Patrick Wolf keeps the trend alive


[Image via the Patrick Wolf Palisade Tumblr site].

Here in Britain we have a great tradition of wearing paper poppies as a sign of remembrance for those who fought in wars since WWI. It's not necessarily about patriotism, more about the recognition of courage, peril and loss, with the poppy being chosen after its prevalence in the fields of WWI battle sites. I wear one every year, with particular thoughts for the members of my family who were involved in WWI and WWII, with traumatic and life-changing consequences. The singer Patrick Wolf, who is a favourite of mine, posted an image today on his Tumblr blog of his poppy being proudly worn for his 'soldier ancestors and all those who never came home', and he encouraged others to do the same - 'be sure to wear yours this November'.

I'm glad that Wolf has shown his support for this cause and promoted it to his fans, because it's slowly becoming more and more difficult to raise awareness and for people to properly acknowledge Remembrance Sunday and Armistice Day. When you buy your paper poppy you are not provided with a safety pin to attach it to your clothes because that was deemed too risky by the health and safety police a few years ago, so now you are responsible for your own pin-related injuries. Luckily the Poppy Appeal has been gradually moving towards fashion alternatives so that people can incorporate the cause into their everyday wardrobe more effectively, and without a safety pin problem in sight. I also wanted to explore poppy-inspired looks that take the strong colour or image and use it with stunning results, because I felt it's important to translate this theme to daily life and fashion (the very angles that the Poppy Appeal has taken).


[Image via the Poppy Appeal's Shop].
This large crystal brooch, £25, by Buckley won't get damaged in the rain (a danger of the paper ones) and it's glitzy enough to make an impact. Brooches have been having a major resurgence in fashion over the past couple of years, due to the demand for vintage-inspired clothing and the return to a British heritage look. You could wear this well with a tea dress and brogues.



[Image via the Poppy Appeal's Shop].
At secondary school I used to pin two poppies in my hair, to make them stand out more. These Kleshna enamel hair slides feel like a more mature version of my idea, and they'd also be useful for coaxing your hair into pin curls. Setting you back £12.95 for two, they're more expensive than normal hair accessories but you won't find them anywhere else and you're also helping out the Poppy Appeal with your purchase.


For the ultimate in poppy-inspired decadence, get some inspiration from this Acne Moorea evening dress with eye-catching asymmetric straps. In 'poppy red', it's a stunning colour that would be complemented nicely by the hair slides. Available from My-Wardrobe.com.


Vivienne Westwood's Anglomania range has made use of 'Poppy tartan twill' fabric to create a selection of pieces that would give you the figure of a wartime sweetheart. This blouse (£295) is curve-creating and celebrates the beauty of a feminine figure. It would look great topped off with a poppy necklace and a faux fur tippet. Available from Net-A-Porter.


For a more literal interpretation, Topshop has this ombre-dyed blouse (£40) that contrasts vermillion with inky blue. It's a sophisticated piece, with bell sleeves and a high neck, though you wouldn't want to pin a poppy through the delicate fabric. As an alternative, the Kleshna hair slides would continue the theme, or you could opt for a poppy phone charm from the official Appeal Shop.


Lastly, Jonathan Saunders has gone print crazy with this poppy scarf at Harrods, which takes the motif and uses a variety of colours (everything from turquoise to moss green). It's a very modern take on this traditional flower, but somehow the mix really works. At £289 it's pretty pricey, so you might prefer to make a donation to the Poppy Appeal instead.

Armistice Day - 11th November.
Remembrance Sunday - 13th November.

Thursday, 22 September 2011

Bear With, Bear With...


[Damien Hirst's skull piece to illustrate how ill I am - not quite dead, let's be honest, but feeling pretty darn rough].

Just a quick apology regarding my lack of posts during the most crucial weeks of the fashion calendar - not only have I been busy interning for my boss at London Fashion Week, but I have now come down with a heavy cold and a side-order of virus as a result of many long days and probably not enough Vitamin C. I'm hoping to be back to normal a.s.a.p, and I certainly haven't deserted the blog, but I'm having to spend a lot of quality time with a packet of Strepsils, Olbas Oil and some extra strength painkillers. It's not exactly glamour central here!

Will be back before you know it. I hope you've all enjoyed seeing the SS/12 collections in the media and on the catwalks, as we'll be discussing them a lot in the next few weeks.

Polly x

Saturday, 13 August 2011

Illamasqua's Born Again Film: Watch It Again


[All images taken as stills by me from the Born Again short film, available here]. The make-up brand Illamasqua has struck gold with this piece of inventive marketing for the Born Again collection. Featuring the BAFTA-winning actress Vicky McClure (who was tear-jerkingly good as Lol in the film This Is England and its follow-up television series, This Is England '86) was a stroke of genius as she is not only a highly talented performer but she also suits the striking plum tones of this look. McClure stars as an unnamed woman, in an unnamed location, who must go on a life-changing journey - and one that requires serious eye make-up.


Stopping at a cafe, our heroine's androgynous and fierce style stands out against the dull decor around her and the anonymous landscape outside. We don't know the purpose for her trip, but we feel involved.


Close-ups not only offer intimacy with the viewer: they also help to showcase the collection in detail. The accent of pinky-red eyeshadow (Liquid Metal in Resolute, £17.50 and Powder Eyeshadow in Daemon, £15.50) really stands out as it frames her lashes, whilst her immaculate brows are sharp and carefully filled. This is a woman whose cosmetics truly enhance her personality, instead of masking it.


I won't give away the plot, but the closing moments feature a more stripped-back look for McClure, where her character has become vulnerable as she is 'Born Again'. This forms quite a contrast to the structured image she has presented to us before.

Illamasqua has produced a great short film here - it draws you in and makes you think. I really enjoyed the unedited version as it was powerful and interesting to see the development of this unnamed woman. I love the art direction involved and the lengths the brand has gone to achieve something so individual and so far removed from the basic selling tactics of most cosmetics companies - product, by-line, consumer survey stating that 98% of women found their wrinkles had disappeared, etc, etc.

Another genius move by Illamasqua is the Facebook competition in conjunction with the Born Again collection, which is called Social Sacrifice. The winner will surrender their Facebook photos to Illamasqua, who will delete them all (though they will be saved on a disc in case you desperately need them back) and slowly build up a new image for you with photoshoots and looks directed by the brand. You will also attend the launch of their first perfume, a show at London Fashion Week, and the set of Vicky McClure's latest film set. This truly is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, and something that is going to make one woman very happy indeed (no, I don't automatically mean me, though I have entered!). I love the idea of rehashing your social media presence via photography and make-up, and I think this is a great way to really get people examining how they present themselves.

For more information on the collection, please see the Illamasqua website.


Friday, 5 August 2011

To explain next week's absence...


[One of my vintage photography negatives, of children at the beach.]

I am going on holiday to the middle of nowhere for a week, so I expect blogging to be somewhat difficult. Normal service will resume from 13th August! I hope to catch up with you all then.

Polly x

Monday, 11 July 2011

Wedding Style a la France, Part 2: Accessorising


This dj accidentally accessorized with a silver handbag (don't think it was his own). I was a bit shocked by his elaborate sideburns, but actually they really suited his look, which was very retro with an upturned collar and flared trousers.


A closer look at my friend Tania's shoe-boots. They are very glamorous and I don't know how she walks in them, but she does so very gracefully. As I mentioned in my previous post, they're from New Look.


The wedding decor really reflected the couple's relationship. They met whilst doing amateur dramatics, so each table was adorned with Venetian masks and was given the name of a French film to do with love or relationships, such as Il y a longtemps que je t'aime (I've loved you so long, which stars the brilliant Kristen Scott-Thomas as a woman reconnecting with her family after a spell in prison for a love-related crime). This really made the reception feel special and the theme worked very well.


Each guest's place was marked by a little paper waistcoat (for the men) or dress (for the women) on a gold hanger made from wire. It was a simple but effective way to show us all to our seats.


This was my place setting, and I took it home afterwards!

Sunday, 3 July 2011

All About Eve: the gradual Eve-olution of a character through fashion (excuse pun)


We see Eve Harrington (played by Anne Baxter) near the end of the film 'All About Eve' as a sophisticated woman with a power wardrobe of mainly black clothes. But how did she get here?


Eve turns on those around her, making life difficult for the woman who plucked her out of obscurity and offered her friendship, Karen Richards (played by Celeste Holm). Eve is wearing a feminine outfit with scallop detailing and a sheer panel, showing off her figure but keeping her demure to preseve her public image of the talented and graceful ingenue.

Eve takes a hand-me-down suit from her idol, Margo Channing (the brilliant Bette Davis), which is an early and poignant indication of her desire to capitalise on their closeness and seep into her life like a slow-acting poison. The creepy smile is further proof of her cunning.


When we first meet Eve she is a naive young girl in a mackintosh and very ugly rain hat. She looks slightly like a bad detective. The pale colourscheme also means that she blends into the background and can seem like a wallflower, when actually she's dying to take centre stage.

[Images my own, taken as stills from the film].

I was enthralled by this story of toxic friendship and power struggles. I decided to tell the fashion story backwards because we first meet Eve as she is collecting an acting award, the Sarah Siddons, for her work. We then flash back to how she reached that stage in her career, beginning life as a super-fan and slight stalker of Margo Channing. The film's final scene is absolutely genius, showing Eve how her actions will leave karma knocking at the door and she is just as replaceable as Margo.

Wednesday, 27 April 2011

You Can't Ignore This... Clothes to get you noticed

Recently I've been having one of those situations where you realise that you're gradually drifting away from people you have been friends with, and it's unsettling to realise that either they haven't missed your presence or you've barely noticed how long they've been gone. As we grow up we inevitably develop new friends and shed old ones, but it doesn't get any easier, especially whilst adjusting to a period where you become invisible to people you used to know. With this in mind, I decided to cheer myself up with a list of Kerry Katona-esque 'look at me' items of clothing, rendering you anything but forgettable. Please note: these are not advisable unless you want a lot of attention and potentially a lifetime of regret.

  • One of those massive tote bags that could fit a few small children in, weighs a ton and may have remnants of old sandwiches from 1990. You will stick out like a sore thumb because it is approximately half your size and gives you a dodgy shoulder slump.
  • The Jodie Marsh approach, a.k.a. finding a few belts knocking around your wardrobe and slinging them across to make some bizarre cut-out bra thing. Do not expect anyone to call you anything other than a derogatory term, ever again.
  • The Yves Klein approach: cover yourself in blue paint and roll around. Who needs proper clothing anyway? It's all about the performance art and the body as a paintbrush.
  • An obscene amount of bling (or shiny jewellery, for those of you not in the know. It doesn't matter if it's real or from Poundland, as long as it's got enough sparkle to get its own spot on Strictly Come Dancing).
  • A 'Kiss Me Quick' hat, teamed with socks and sandals. You'll have everyone staring, but for the wrong reasons.
  • Anything Lady Gaga hasn't thought of yet, such as a hat made from old Pritt Stick, or a pair of ancient Chinese footbinding shoes.
  • A very attractive but essentially dim boyfriend as an accessory. Useful for photo ops, but not for actual conversations or for finding a spider in the bathroom at 2am.
It almost makes subtlety seem worthwhile.
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