Visual Merchandising in Rome: Shop Window Lust

After last week's Roman Holiday adventure (in which I did not resemble Audrey Hepburn or smash a guitar over a spy's head on the River Tiber, but I did have lots of gelato), it's time to reflect. Naturally I had my VM brain on when I visited the city, as it's so well known for shopping and I'm such a shop window whore, so I've come up with an overview of the best fashion snapshots that I took.

These were mainly in the Via Del Corso and Via Condotti and the surrounding streets. The area is a mecca for anyone with money to burn and it's also a great place just to gaze at quirky displays. Enjoy!

 Where else to start, but with Valentino?

The atelier that is surely most synonymous with Rome, Valentino remains as chic as ever, despite the man himself no longer running the show. We're still seeing feminine silhouettes and great craftsmanship, with designs that you know would be investment pieces.

 It's all about the Rockstuds.

Just as Valentino has previously taken camouflage print and removed it from an army setting (he used it as the basis for a ballgown), his brand continues to push the envelope. Here we see the faddish low fashion trend of studs, which was corrupted from its punk origins and became the embellishment of your average housewife's t-shirt, being used as a high fashion material.

 Mannequins in catwalk formation.

 A rainy view of MaxMara.

 Dolce & Gabbana go for deckchair stripes in an oversized doll's box.

 Louis Vuitton goes old skool with a typewriter, a parquet floor and a flurry of paper.

 Really simple visuals, but these stacks of paper work well as pedestal columns for menswear.

 Just off the Campo De' Fiori, I found this lurid but fun shoe shop. Love the brogues.

 The hipster contents of Nora P in the Monti district.

Want real shabby chic and artisan cool in Rome? Then you have to head to Monti. My Vespa tour guide, Annie, described it as Italy's answer to Nolita in New York. It's quirky and fun, full of tiny restaurants serving authentic local food, alongside vintage stores and bars. Nora P was a homeware shop that we came across in the area, boasting weird and wonderful furniture and accessories.

 Chanel's black and white photo montage got me snap-happy.

 The other branch of Vuitton is the flagship store and it has a cool back-story.

This used to be Rome's first cinema, so the team at Louis Vuitton decided to use its original features as a starting point for the building's re-design. You'll find a board outside listing screenings of fashion films.

Spot the cinema screen at the back.

Okay, so you can't smell the heady mix of popcorn and hormones that your average cinema reeks of, but instead you get cool promotional videos and something a little bit different. Kudos to LVMH for keeping an authentic slice of Rome, rather than glossing over it. This proves it really is the Eternal City, with more reinventions than Madonna.

As for the actual shopping that I could afford, I was more high street than high chic, but I did manage to bring back some seriously good chocolate and a leather-bound notebook. Maybe next time I go, I'll be doing more than window shop in the stores along the Via Condotti... well, a girl can dream!

Five Stylish Reasons Why I'm Visiting Rome

Tomorrow I will be browsing the streets of Rome, preparing for a vintage Vespa trip (woop!) and tracking down the very best gelato that money can buy. However, the city is often overlooked in favour of Milan when it comes to fashion, but Romans certainly know how to dress and how to shop. This is why I couldn't wait to drop in on them...

[Image via Tumblr]. Delfina Delettrez is one of Rome's hottest designers.

1.  I want to check out up-and-coming Italian brands, such as jewellery designer Delfina Delettrez, whose skeleton hand belt is one of the coolest anatomical pieces I've ever seen. She's also part of the Fendi family, so clearly talent runs in the blood. 

2. Up-and-coming districts like San Lorenzo, home to uni students and street art, are worth visiting for style inspiration. I'll be looking out for sharply dressed young Italians and hot vintage shops - apparently Via Dei Volschi is the place to hit.

3. There's a brilliant flea market culture here that means you're never far away from second hand goods. Most of them take place on a Sunday, which I'll unfortunately miss, but one low-key event runs all week behind a church. I'll be popping by to see if I can pick up some bargains.

4. You can't ignore the impact of the great Valentino Garavani on Rome. The man who made the city his catwalk (and held a party at the Colosseum and a retrospective at the Ara Pacis) still leaves his mark here, with his studio continuing to produce eye-catching couture under the watchful eye of two successors, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. They've brought us the rockstud shoes, which I love. 

5. The Trevi Fountain, one of the most famous sights, is being rescued and restored by Fendi, with Karl Lagerfeld at the helm. I'm expecting the statues to be clutching Fendi Baguette bags in no time at all. 

Besides all of this, I'll be visiting the shopping malls, boutiques and street sellers scattered around the streets and will be keeping my eyes peeled for Roman street style. It's also more than likely I'll be doing a Julia Roberts in Eat Pray Love and needing to track down bigger jeans that can accommodate my love of Italian food...

Anyway, I'll be back at the weekend, with a fresh copy of Vogue Italia and loads of photos. Stay tuned.

Three Reasons To Be Excited About & Other Stories Launching

Fans of COS and H&M rejoice: there's a new sister brand joining the family. & Other Stories is the latest offering of Scandi cool that will be making an impact in wardrobes all over Europe, with the launch of a British store on 8th March in addition to branches in Paris, Copenhagen, Barcelona and Berlin, to name but a few.

Not only do they cover clothing and accessories, but you'll also find cosmetics. Look out for the cobalt blue and bright orange eyeshadow. Here are three key reasons why you should be clearing some space to fit the brand into your life:

 [All images: & Other Stories, collaged by me].

1. The minimalist cuts are bold and beautiful

It doesn't matter whether you like your minimalism a bit space-age, metallic and sleek, or full of bold colours and soft fabrics; either way, expect cleverly cut pieces combining different textures, such as the iridescent clutch bag with a chunky tassel. I think my favourite piece in the whole preview so far has been the pink long-sleeved dress (£65), which sits on the hips.

Check out those accessories.

2. The price points are pretty accessible

Expect prices that sit more in the region of COS than H&M, meaning you maybe won't be doing a Primark-style Supermarket Sweep, but you'll be able to indulge now and again, with sunglasses at £17 and rings at £12 and a bargain blue clutch at £19, but also there are investment buys such as directional heels for around £80-90. As with COS, the most expensive items tend to be jackets, dresses and shoes, whereas in H&M the rule of thumb tends to see premium knitwear and dresses being more expensive than most shoes or jackets.

Flattering shapes from the collection.

3. You'll be able to hide your flaws

Judging by the lookbook, there's not a body-con item in sight. Instead you get pencil skirts that don't cling and tailored trousers that flatter without cutting off the circulation. I only wish that I'd be able to pull off the black maxi dress with the very, ahem, minimalist top panels, but I guess it does help to narrow down my ever-increasing wishlist...

If you want to find out more, pop into 256-258 Regent Street from 12pm on 8th March, or visit stories.com. I already know that my first story will end with me getting out my wallet!

Lakme Fashion Week: Designers to Watch in 2013

Although the fashion world is currently revolving around the Big Four (New York, London, Milan and Paris - we're currently still on Milan), it's worth noting that another important showcase is just around the corner. Lakme Fashion Week will be held in Mumbai from 22nd-26th March, where we'll get to see Spring/Summer Resort collections for 2013. As a bit of an Indiaholic (I've seen a fair few Bollywood films, I'm saving up to go to India and I love reading the Vogue India website), I couldn't resist bringing you a taste of Indian style.

The organisers of LFW Mumbai (don't get it confused with London's LFW) listed their Next Gen and Emerging Designers back in January, so I've picked a few of my favourites that I'll definitely be looking out for next month.

Ilk, by Shikha Grover and Vinita Adhikari - from Noida

[Images via Ilk's website]. 

Dreamy textures and drapery make up Ilk's latest offering.

You may have spotted Ilk on the independent online boutique, Not Just a Label. Their most recent collection was called I Lose Myself and featured deconstructed threads, layers of different textures and pops of neon in accessories. They really push themselves to experiment with forms and with influences when they are designing (for example, I Lose Myself was based on ideas about 'what metamorphic thinking is not' and 'anatomical exploration'). Expect big ideas and wearable pieces.

Nikhil Thampi - from Mumbai

[Images via Vogue.in and Google Images].

Nikhil Thampi's vampish designs are irresistible and flattering.

The dress in the centre is completely backless except for two leather straps and was worn with leather leggings by Evelyn Sharma.

Since 2011, Thampi has been charming India with his designs, which have been seen on some seriously glamorous celebrities such as Anoushka and Evelyn Sharma. His dresses tend to involve sweeping folds of fabric, open backs and clean lines without busy patterns, making them a popular choice for red carpet events. However, there's also a quirky side to his work - see his chainmail and leather corset and a velvet dress with leather straps as examples of something a little less traditional.

Thampi always wanted to be in fashion but was set to join the family business instead. What changed his mind was when he helped out a friend who was preparing to show at Lakme Fashion Week, bringing him back into the industry. Although he isn't formally trained, his work shows that he obviously made the right choice in becoming a designer.

Aarti Vijay Gupta - from Mumbai

 [Images via Vogue.in].

Gupta's creations are clever and make brilliant use of her print skills.

I've written about Aarti Vijay Gupta at LFW before, as I was so impressed by her A/W 2012 collection based on colour charts and technical patterns, mixed with black and white doodles. People have also compared her work to that of Masaba, a label which has recently focused on repeat patterns of symbols and objects, such as hand prints, cows or letters (as seen in Permia's Pop-Up Shop).

It's also worth noting that Aarti Vijay Gupta's Pantone-esque exploration of colour also saw her creating a print of shirt templates, which was echoed by Lacoste's recent use of shirt print fabric in their S/S 2013 line. Clearly conceptual ideas such as this are not exclusive to one brand, and it's great to see the trend spanning continents.

Which Lakme designers get your vote? Do you keep an eye on Fashion Week around the world? Let me know. Oh, and if you need even more persuading that India is where it's at, check out this brilliant feminist commentary from (male) designer Sabyasachi on female beauty laws.

Gucci A/W13: Power Dressing with a Burgundy Glare

If you're always longing to look a bit more stylish in winter - think knee-high boots, a bit of snakeskin, loads of plum and teal; chuck out your terrible chunky gloves, static hairstyles and sensible shoes - you need to see Gucci's take on the season. Break out the burgundy eyeshadow (try MAC or Illamasqua) and get ready for a makeover.

 There was plenty of high gloss black.

No, it's not the Matrix Reloaded, it's Frida Giannini's view of Autumn/Winter. The designer may be pregnant, but she was ready to unleash some fierce visions of femininity on the catwalk. I especially enjoyed the distressed dress (on the right), where the leather was cracked and softened like a 20-year-old biker jacket. The cocoon coat in the centre was a great example of leather panels used in moderation.

 Houndstooth was digitally printed onto different pieces.

This digital print worked really well as a recurring motif, teamed with snakeskin and a ladylike bag. Rather than channeling the British heritage trend, this was a more new age use of houndstooth that brought it right into the 21st century. The dress (on the right) will look amazing on the red carpet.

 If in doubt, fold.

Each of these ensembles uses a simple fold to add shape and character to what would otherwise be fairly standard pieces. The v-neck black dress becomes a wrap-over; the high neck coat gets a fluid curve that really makes it stand out. 

 More is more.

The last trend I spotted was all-out excess - whole outfits in the same shade of blue; a feathered skirt under a batwing silk blouse; a feathered top with a sheer front section (only to be worn by flat-chested women, I assume).

This was a classic Autumn/Winter collection, with familiar textures like velvet, which keeps reappearing every A/W season for the last few years with no sign of losing popularity, leather and pony hair (without the rainbow finish, a la Jeremy Scott). There was just the right amount of floral pattern on dresses and plenty of fail-safe black to make it easy to imagine incorporating into your wardrobe. Molto bene, Gucci.

Jonathan Saunders A/W13: A Whole New Meaning to Squeaky Clean

Proving that London always adds some much-needed quirk to the Fashion Week proceedings, Jonathan Saunders delivered an A/W2013 line that balanced bondage a la Fifty Shades of Grey with more respectable (read: you could wear these to a cocktail party) vintage-inspired dresses.

 [All images via Showstudio.com].

How much gloss would madame like?

Saunders gave his audience a lot of flexibility when it came to choosing how much PVC they would like and where they wanted it to sit, whether it was a tight waist piece or a full-on white PVC dress with a billowing skirt. The differing levels meant that the Saunders woman could be as obvious or as subtle as she wanted.

 Goodnight sweetheart

These sweetheart necklines worked well, in either soft khaki, black PVC against duck egg blue or more blatant bright red. The multi-strap leather heels also hint at something less than innocent.

 Restricted style

The dress on the right and the jacket in the centre show how well the PVC works against more voluminous fabrics in earthy colours, whilst the dress on the left is much less forgiving. The only neutral tone left is the brown of the shoes and the model is barely visible against what she is wearing. I like how Saunders has played with nipped in waists and wide skirts, but also how he has attempted a fuller skirt with the synthetic fabric.

From innocence to experience

These three looks are unashamedly full-on; you couldn't conceal their intentions if you tried. The flashes of red on the shoes and the top of the dress, and the leopard print, are adding signals for you to look at the models - they're Kat Slater trademarks that somehow work brilliantly in high fashion as well.

Saunders has created a collection that goes against the stereotype of the British prude and instead gives us an assertive woman who isn't afraid to be looked at; in fact, she's looking right back.

Eudon Choi A/W13: Let's Get Waisted

I was really impressed by Eudon Choi's Autumn/Winter 2013 collection - it had a nice blend of quirky accessories and really wearable pieces, from structured jackets to chunky knitwear in pink and turquoise - but the main draw for me was the waist detail. Say hello to next season's focal point - waist belt not necessary.

 [All images via Vogue.co.uk]

Dresses were gathered at the waist or drop-waist and sat beautifully.

It was all about femininity here, but with a touch of toughness on top of the sugar coating. Dainty shoes with pom-poms sat below long-sleeved dresses in several different styles, meaning there was something for every body shape. 

The leather version on the left flatters boyish figures and gives the illusion of wider hips, whilst the v-neck in the centre has a higher flaring and means that women who have 'child-bearing' hips would be able to emphasise their waist. Lastly, the version on the right suits top-heavy women who can't get away with the deep v in the centre but still need a mid-waist cinch.

 Skirts aside, there was still plenty drawing attention to the mid-section.

These coats (left and right) show how effective a simple coloured panel can be. As before, the panel that sits lower is perfect for those of you who want to emphasise your hips, whereas the higher cut disguises the hips and focuses on balancing the top half out. The top and trousers in the centre add height because of the continual pattern and the slimming vertical stripes, so it's a perfect combination if you're petite.

No more skirting the issue... here are the easy pieces you need.

Stand-out skirts were paired with effortless basics like these billowing white shirts and this navy coat with what looks like a shearling trim. There was a nice symmetry between the floral headpieces and the pom-poms on the shoes as well.

This felt like a collection that wasn't just designed for the typical fashion industry silhouette; it would work on anyone with curves, too - whether they come from the hips or the chest, or indeed both. Eudon Choi added a great blend of sugar and spice to next season, accessible to all.