As Nicholas Ghesquiere Leaves Balenciaga, Who Will Replace Him?

It's been a year of turbulent fashion shake-ups, but none more dramatic than the departure of the legendary Nicholas Ghesquiere from Balenciaga, where he had been the Creative Director for 15 years. As of 30th November, Ghesquiere will no longer be responsible for the brand's aesthetics, leaving a gaping hole that will need to be patched up by a serious innovator. 

P.S. If you're looking for updates on this story (the Kane debacle, followed by the Wang debacle), scroll to the end!

 His last collection for the Parisian fashion house, Spring/Summer 2013.

[Image via Elle UK].

You don't have to delve far into the Google results to find that there had been growing animosity between Ghesquiere and Balenciaga's CEO, Isabelle Guichot, and also with Francois-Henri Pinault, the chairman of the brand's parent group, PPR. Pinault invested serious money into the reinvention of the Yves Saint Laurent label under Hedi Slimane but seemingly did not give Balenciaga the same lavish treatment. If this is the case then it's not hard to imagine Ghesquiere's frustration at watching a newcomer being given more funding and prominence, when he has spent one and a half decades doing his job without those kind of special exceptions. Slimane was even allowed to change YSL's name to 'Saint Laurent Paris', for goodness' sake, which felt a little pointless to me - a bit like when the Conservative Party went on for ages in the press about their new logo, which turned out to be a scribbly crayon tree that took approximately five seconds to produce.

Who will replace Ghesquiere? It's a Cluedo-esque mystery.

[Image via Google].

Wang, Altuzarra or Kane for Balenciaga?

The rumour mill is already going into overdrive with speculation as to who might be lined up as the new Creative Director of Balenciaga, with Alexander Wang being an early favourite. Other contenders are as varied as Joseph Altuzarra, Christopher Kane (who has been working his magic over at Versus with Donatella Versace), Mary Katrantzou and J.W. Anderson. Personally my money wouldn't be on the last two in that list, as I feel they're still determined to focus on building up their own labels and it would be an incredible shift to go from designing edgy Topshop capsule collections to influencing an entire fashion house. Depending on your source, Balenciaga dates back to 1914, 1918 or 1937, according to the Telegraph, Mr. Porter and the New York Times, respectively, though 1937 was when the first collection was shown in Paris as a fashion house, but whatever date you pick then we're talking about a long heritage of seriously respected couture. I'd prefer to see Katrantzou and Anderson continuing to spread their wings creatively under their own names before making that kind of leap into taking the reins of a powerhouse. However, Altuzarra, Kane and Wang would all be on my shortlist as they've had longer to establish themselves in the public eye and find their feet.

As for Ghesquiere, what will happen to him? Well, both Cathy Horyn and Suzy Menkes (New York Times) have at least implied that PPR rivals LVMH have already approached him to discuss working together. Menkes claimed that he would be able to design under his own name if he took up the LVMH offer, which would come with much greater creative freedom. Good on him if he does choose to do this, as he deserves to be better known for the work he has produced.

I look forward to reading about Ghesquiere's successor and seeing what direction he chooses to go in next. The times are certainly a-changin' in the fashion world, and it seems you can't expect everyone to stick to the status quo.

UPDATE: 17/11 - Christopher Kane to take over at Balenciaga

Grazia has today reported that Kane will succeed Ghesquiere as Creative Director at Balenciaga, according to the French branch of the magazine and also the newspaper Le Nouvel Observateur. Though there has been no official declaration from either Kane or the fashion house, it seems inevitable that the Scottish whizzkid will be taking the coveted position. 

Congratulations to Christopher, and I hope that Ghesquiere will find himself in a similarly exciting new role. 

But wait... what's that? A new development? Yup, read on. I thought Kane was a done deal, thanks to all those sources, but little did I know that the plot needed to thicken a little more.

UPDATE: 30/11 - Alexander Wang to take over at Balenciaga

Bloody hell, I can hardly keep up. Today it was announced in a flurry of whispers and some mega tweets that Wang, and not Kane, would be taking the reigns at the fashion house. Alexandra Shulman, Bryan Boy and Suzie Lau got Twitter in a frenzy and made us all wonder what on earth would happen to Kane, as excited as we were about Wang's future. I'm not sure what to believe anymore, but I know that Kane won't be allowed to flounder as he has a solid reputation and has built up an incredible following over the last few years, assisted by his sister Tammy. 

As for Wang? It is undeniably a 'big leap', in Shulman's words, given that the celebrated diffusion line T by Alexander Wang focused on great casual basics rather than couture, but his main line shows that he knows what the public wants and is very commercially attuned to the modern woman and he already has 12 stores. Given Ghesquiere's propensity to move away from the mass market then it's clear that Balenciaga is showing they want to focus on a wider and more financially driven (rather than creatively driven) market by hiring Wang.

That, I hope, is the conclusion to this story...

What to buy a fashion lover for Christmas, on a budget: the gift guide

Well, this post needs little introduction. Like those Ronseal adverts, it does what it says on the tin - find some inspiration for appeasing the fashion monster inside your loved one with these gift ideas. There's a protest t-shirt for the activist fashionista, a free exhibition worth checking out, and a designer jumper that is incredibly good value for money. It's my excuse to play personal shopper, so enjoy!

Cost: I need change from a fiver

 [Image via Selectism.com].

One of the simplest ways to get into style at the moment is to pick up one of the limited edition Diet Coke cans or bottles designed by Jean Paul Gaultier (for inspiration, think stripes, sailors and corsets with lashings of bare flesh and copious tattoos). Perfect for adding a bit of thought to a Secret Santa present, unless you really want to give them that Selection Box. These little JPG beauties have been selling well on eBay as collectors flock to get a piece of the action.

Cost: under twenty, please

 [Image: Free Pussy Riot T-shirt at Amnesty].

Not only do you get a cool protest t-shirt designed by the very quirky illustrator David Shrigley, but you're actively supporting a leading human rights charity and standing up for women worldwide by promoting this cause. All this for £14.99? Yep, and it's available for men and women, so everyone's happy. Just make sure the recipient reads up on Pussy Riot before they wear it outside, in case anyone asks for an explanation - nobody likes a faux protester. FYI, two members of the controversial punk group are still in prison, despite the fact that they did nothing illegal in playing a gig at an Orthodox Christian cathedral in Moscow.

Cost: keep it under thirty

[Image: Tim Walker at Amazon.co.uk]

Tim Walker: Storyteller examines the work of a fashion photography legend with this huge coffee table book that ties into the Somerset House retrospective. If you know someone who gets giddy over magazine editorial and practically lives on the website Fashion Gone Rogue (ahem, me) then this will float their elaborately decorated boat and costs £24.30 from Amazon, saving you over £20 off the RRP. 

P.S. If you're utterly skint but like this idea then head up to Tim Walker: Storyteller at Somerset House and witness the free exhibition up close in one of London's best fashion exhibition venues. It runs until 27th January 2013 and promises to be a treat for fans of set design, creative photography and theatrical style.

 

Cost: under fifty but looks like I spent a lot more

 [Image: Michael Kors at theoutnet.com].

This Michael Kors jumper is a bit of a bargain at £43.75 reduced from £125, so you can keep label lovers happy without going bankrupt yourself. The sort of woman who'd wear this could be anything from a Nirvana fan who has recurring dreams about meeting Kurt Cobain, to someone who wants to add a bit more of a casual edge to their girly wardrobe.

It's also not one of those blatantly branded items that can leave you feeling a bit jaded (if you come out in hives at the thought of Juicy Couture tracksuit bottoms, you might know what I mean); this is versatile and wearable, but certainly not naff enough to be consigned to the 'dodgy Christmas jumpers' pile in the attic.

 [Image: Smythson at Net-a-Porter.com]

Smythson is known these days for producing nearly as many fashion accessories as stationery items, so if you're struggling to afford the latest bag from the brand (at least a few hundred quid, in case you're wondering) then downgrade to one of these journals instead. At £45 it isn't small change to most of us but it will definitely make an impact on anyone who appreciates the prestige behind the name and the cheeky slogan on this leather notebook.

Hopefully these ideas will help you cut down on pre-Christmas shopping angst and leave you more money for spending in the Sales.

Fashion Calendar: November and December - Maison Martin Margiela, iPhoneography and Refinery29

So, Christmas is coming and your downtime is suddenly thin on the ground, right? (I know mine is). It can be mind-boggling trying to stay on top of what's going on in the fashion world at the best of times, but I find that we all seem to go into a state of tunnel vision from now until December 25th, possibly due to an overdose of Wham! and Slade, and time just disappears. So I've put together this quick guide to three of the hottest fashion and culture events over the coming weeks - just cherry-pick your favourites.

November 15th = Maison Martin Margiela for H&M

 Over-sized draped dress, £99.99, Maison Martin Margiela.

Sam Taylor-Johnson shot these images, which have a beautifully crisp finish.

 Draped dress in black, £99.99.

I'd style this with Vivienne Westwood suede ankle boots and a statement over-sized earring.

 Jacket, £59.99; trousers with front seam, £59.99; wedge shoes in nude with plexi detail, £149.99.

 Having recently picked up very similar shoes from Office, I can definitely see the allure of the nude shoe with a plastic heel. They look challenging but would be fun to wear.

That sweet wrapper clutch bag, £34.99; nude body with bra print, £29.99; oversized jeans, £39.99.

If I had the washboard stomach I'd be adding this bodysuit to my shopping basket.

In the mean time, the pop art-style clutch will do nicely, thanks.

[Images via British Vogue].

You might have read recently about American eBay mysteriously gaining some MMMxH&M merchandise ahead of the official product launch, seemingly from the recent celebrity-laden press event. Light-fingered stars aside, you can't truly get your hands on any of the goods until 15th November, in selected stores from 9am. I'll be attending the exclusive preview event on 14th, courtesy of Vogue and one very lucky ticket draw, and I will be reporting back on the blog about what I find in Regent Street.

This is something of a dramatic contrast to H&M's previous collaboration, which was with the fashion editor du jour Anna Dello Russo, who is top fodder for street style bloggers around the world. Maison Martin Margiela is the opposite of fashion chameleon Anna, as the company's inner workings aren't well documented and the mysterious figurehead actually left the company several years ago. The brand itself continues to be enigmatic but always strives to push the boundaries of convention and conceptual thought. If you think fashion is art then you will love this collection. What's more, a mainline piece of Margiela will set you back hundreds, if not thousands, of pounds (case in point: a camel coat for men costs over a grand), so this is the one time us plebs have a chance of affording it. Thank you, MMM.

November 17th - December 15th = iPhone Photography Workshop, The Photographers' Gallery, London

This is a five week workshop that would be perfect for those of you who own an iPhone and want to be more than a casual snapper (I'm still on an utterly terrible Blackberry with a shooting capacity that looks like every photo is taken through a keyhole, but I will grit my teeth and not be jealous of you lot...). The Photographers' Gallery is an excellent place to learn new skills and they really are passionate about all forms of making and sharing photos. I participated in one of their projects several years ago, which was a magazine project and live art installation in Selfridges, and it was a fascinating and fun experience that pushed me out of my comfort zone.

If you want to participate in the iPhone workshops then clear your schedule for five Saturdays from 2pm-5pm and make some room for new apps on your phone. It sounds like a great opportunity to learn a new skill that you'll be able to use all the time in daily life, especially if you're looking to create more shareable images.

December = Refinery29, leading US fashion website, comes to the UK

I'm already a fan of Refinery29, the website that scouts for the best deals and trend updates in fashion and beauty, so I was pretty pleased to discover that a UK branch of the site is being launched in December (exact date unconfirmed). Just in time for Christmas, you'll be able to discover what fashion is like behind the scenes, with an emphasis on sneak peeks at the hottest designers and nightlife, but also a personable feel that gives you localised knowledge about the shops near you.

I've also read that there will be Brit It Girls, though there's no word as to who they will be. I'm praying it's not the 'stars' of Made in Chelsea and hoping for insiders who we can see as role model-esque figures - maybe more along the lines of Lily Cole (who is equal parts model/History of Art graduate/actress/charity and environment campaigner). The website sees itself as a 'global style hub' and I am looking forward to seeing who its Brit ambassadors will be; hopefully people with a unique insight and sense of what the trends mean to them.


With the calendar complete, which events are tempting you for the next month or so? Share them around and spread the word - let's make the run up to Christmas about doing something different and squeezing in more fashion than festive panic.

The 99p Dress by OMG: A Fashion Marketing Masterclass

Raising eyebrows but ticking the trend boxes, this dress costs just 99p.

[Image via OMG Fashion].

If you dig beneath the glossy surface of retail, one of the most obvious marketing tactics to draw people in is to offer certain products as 'loss leaders'. These are the heavily discounted items that you're not making money on - in fact, you'll more than likely be selling them at a loss - but they drive new customers into the shop who then end up buying a shed-load of items along with that dirt-cheap t-shirt or DVD, so everyone goes home happy. One of the most obvious cases of this is the newly available dress by OMG Fashion (nope, I hadn't heard of them either) which was put on sale for just 99p today. No, that's not a typo. I want to explore the positives - basically their marketing strategy - and the negatives, as well as the best counter-argument that I believe charity shops and environmentally-friendly retailers could launch. 

Marketing Gold

So much traffic was generated to the website that it crashed and the item is now marked on the homepage as 'Out of stock until further notice'. Although many of the shoppers may have only snapped up the bargain and not been tempted by its much pricier neighbours, such as the bandage dress for a grossly inflated £59, the majority probably stuck something else in their virtual basket too, so the loss wouldn't have been astronomical to the company. What's more, they've managed to generate a heap of publicity with their marketing tactic, generating traffic and purchases. It's blatant and obvious and a bit cheap, but you can't deny that it works.

Financial Issues - Fair Wage vs. The Recession

Strangely, one of the biggest gripes that the public had was that the dress was likely to have been made in a sweatshop by impoverished children; something that shoppers don't normally worry about when they buy from notorious sweatshop labour abusers like Gap and Nike. Somehow it's only when the price we pay is low, rather than grossly inflated, that we are exposed as buying into the exploitation of workers, as if the 99p dress is the source of all evil. Well, I don't think it is (though it may be symptomatic).

The thing is, though Britain may have been labelled as being 'out of the recession', for many of us we are really, really not. If someone offered you a Christmas party outfit for less than the price of Heat Magazine, well, it might be quite tempting, especially considering the amount you'd be spending on the rest of your evening. Although I do like to be ethical where I can, such as being a member of Amnesty, and I've worked with several ethical labels in my career, I'm not going to deny that I shop in H&M and Primark too. I can certainly see the financial appeal of this piece, whether it sits comfortably with me or not. It's fun and flirty and it would suit young girls who want to let their hair down and forget financial issues. However, I do think it presents a golden opportunity for ethical organisations to get their own back.

Sweet Charity - How to Challenge OMG

The way that charity shops should tackle publicity such as this, which emphasises the convenience of throwaway fashion, is to take on the 99p challenge. I think a great counter-argument would be to up-cycle dresses in charity shops, spending 99p on the materials to engineer the up-cycling, such as second-hand buttons, remnants of fabric, sequins, vegetable dye, wax for a batik effect, etc. Meanwhile, ethical labels could blog about the dress and its negative impact, then create pieces that make the wearer feel a million dollars rather than under a quid.

As you can see, the dress really did spark a lot of mixed thoughts for me. I won't be buying it, though I'm not going to pretend that I'm some kind of ethical goddess, because I'm also partial to the lure of the incredibly cheap high street and online retailers. Whether you go and buy it or not, you have to admit that it's a controversial move and one that is undeniably interesting to both fashion lovers and haters.

A Fashion Postcard from Berlin

 A snapshot of Berlin from my travels.

I've just got back from a whistlestop tour of Berlin, Colditz and Dresden (yep, I don't do holidays by halves) and it seemed only fitting to share some of the sights of the German capital which is known for being a gathering point for hipsters. 

Local residents are so sick of trendy gangs of youths - think Dalston but with Euros instead of pounds being dropped on achingly cool fashion and overpriced cocktails - that they've told them to leave Berlin alone. Having managed to avoid most of the scenesters on my trip, I can safely say that the city is fascinating enough without paying them much lip service.

 The leaves were beautifully rusty around the city centre.

If you want a style reference, think Christina Hendricks' hair.

 A mime artist reclines by the Brandenburg Gate.

 If you want to buy authentic vintage that gives back to charity, go to Humana.

 The Humana store in Alexanderplatz is an affordable treasure trove. I loved the coats!

 The woman on the left had some amazing baggy harem pants that caught my eye.

 Someone should tell Miuccia Prada that a nail salon in the U-Bahn rather likes her name.

 A short walk from Potsdamer Platz, I spotted this man deep in hipster thought.

 How to do brand awareness, German style: dress up your workers in lederhosen and other traditional costumes. Add copious amounts of Schnapps and some fake gold bars.

 I'm pretty chuffed with how this photo of the Berlin Wall turned out.

This particular section had an almost pebble-dashed chewing gum pattern.

The poster art promoting the film museum was really interesting.

[All photos my own. Please ask before reproducing].

This is just a small portion of what I got up to on my travels, but I hope you'll excuse the absence from blogging. I did take my iPad and intended to blog but the Wi-Fi costs in hotels still remain ridiculously high (and I refuse to pay them) and also my trip was utterly packed with little down-time, so I decided to focus on photography for a bit. 

If you're thinking of going to Berlin then I'd thoroughly recommend it, whether you're into fashion or not; there's so much to see and I certainly don't feel that I've done enough.

Wool Week 2012: I Wasn't Born, I Was Knitted

The knitwear genius of Sister by Sibling at London Fashion Week, working a toile print (S/S13).

You may not be aware of the dearth of 'national/international [insert common theme, such as toilet paper, embarrassing medical condition or random emotion] week' publicity drives that take place throughout the year, but this time around there's a pretty worthy one that should be on your agenda: Wool Week. It's a global event that puts this 'most versatile and natural fibre' (thank you, official website) in the spotlight. 

As I've grown up surrounded by knitting - no, not in a strange wooly commune, but in the midst of my mother's favourite habit and a much-loved Jemima Puddleduck pullover from my childhood - it's become second nature to me to seek out the perfect pattern. I will lust over knitted designer delights or pure wool coats from COS and try to save up my pennies. Sadly I haven't inherited the family knitting gene and I cannot work out how to 'purl one' or 'cast off', let alone 'cast on', but I have a deep-seated envy for those who take to it naturally and can churn out a jumper or two in the space of watching one series of Downton Abbey.

To celebrate Wool Week 2012 and to cope with my inability to join a knitting club, here are three reasons to love wool even more:

1. You can be any age and get away with wearing it; there's no such thing as 'slutty wool' (good grief. Well, maybe a woolen mankini would raise a few eyebrows, but thankfully I haven't spotted one yet) and you can't really get called 'mutton dressed as lamb' (yup, sheep jokes, wool, enough said) for putting on a nice jumper. Anyone from babies to geriatrics can make it look good.

2. Back in the days of university, I learned that woolen cloaks were something of a staple item during the Renaissance and they were something to be feared as well as utilised. You could turn your cloak into a fairly respectable tent or rain shield if you needed to, and it was great for keeping out the cold, but also you could hide behind it and disguise your appearance. A group of people wearing cloaks and approaching you commanded the same level of fear as a bunch of teenagers in hoodies does today.

3. There have been some unforgettable fashion looks involving wool, and I'm sure there will be many more to come. Think of Vivienne Westwood's tartan, Chanel Tweed jackets, Raf Simons' powder pink elegant coats for his final collection at Jil Sander... How about Mark Fast's intricate woven dresses, or Markus Lupfer's sequinned intarsia jumpers? They're all made with wool. 

 Topshop gets in on the act with this design by Henrietta Jerram. Image via the Campaign for Wool. 

So, fashion lovers, it's time to wear your heart on your sleeve and celebrate all things knitted.

Visual Merchandising: Browns vs. Zara, Autumn/Winter 2012

 Browns waits for a round of applause from the audience...

 The easy autumnal colours made this an effortless window.

The skateboard is something you don't spot until the second look.

 Going for the yoof audience with this streetwear ensemble at Browns.

 Zara went for classic monochrome in their clothing, teamed with eye-catching facial jewellery with a sort of Ashish or Chanel vibe - gap yah meets urban street style.

 I liked the incorporation of cables into the display.

 Edgy haircuts vs. edgy adornments

 White blonde hair was the order of the day to set off black and white outfits.

 I love that winged headpiece. 

Taking dip dye to a new level, it's the poker-straight black-meets-white hairdo at Zara.